时尚字典

The Dictionary of Fashion

No.14

Collection 时装系列

Colour Wheel 色轮

Concept 概念

上

期

回

顾

/ Contrast /

对比色

A colour palette in which the different hues stand out against each other. Contrasting colours can be used to create vivid fabric designs, such as the Chanel ensemble(1937-1938) pictured. Some colour combinations project and are more contrasting as shown in the panels below. Yellow and cyan project from and contrast with red, while magenta recedes into it.

色板中能够映衬彼此的不同颜色。对比鲜明的色彩可以创作出生动的设计，如图中所示的香奈儿服装（1937-1938）。某些颜色组合会特别亮眼，且对比度会更高，如下面色板所示。黄色和青色在红色的映衬下能够凸显，且与红色形成对比，而洋红色与红色一起则显得黯淡。

/ Corsage /

胸花

In traditional dressmaking, the bodice or waist of a dress, such as those in the illustration, to which the skirts are attached. A corsage is often confused with a corset, perhaps in part because a bridal corset is a corsage. Corsage also refers to a small bouquet of flowers that may be attached to a dress or placed around the wrist.

在传统的服装制作中，corsage指的是女服的胸部或腰部上的胸衣（例如插图中的裙子），与裙子相连接。corsage（胸衣）经常与corset（紧身胸衣）混淆，可能是因为一部分婚纱中不使用紧身胸衣，而是用胸衣。corsage一词也指胸花，装饰女服上身或肩部的小花束。

/ Corset /

紧身胸衣

A lace-up garment stiffened by boning and worn around the torso to mould the body into a desired shape. Originally worn by men and women, corsets were used to constrict the waist and reduce its size, known as tight-lacing (with a waist of 13 inches possible in extreme cases), and were worn over a chemise or shift during the Victorian era. The corset has evolved into a women’s garment that mimics the look without actually performing the body shaping function (although they still maintain boning and lacing features), as it has become an item of outerwear.

一种绑带式服装，内有骨架增加硬度，作用是给身体塑形。最初男性和女性都会穿着紧身胸衣，用其来塑紧腰部，也称为紧绷带（在极端情况下，腰围可能只有13英寸），在维多利亚时期，紧身胸衣外穿衬衣或直筒连衣裙。现在紧身胸衣已演变成一种只有外观相同的女士服装，但实际上没有塑身功能（尽管它们仍有骨架和绑带），实际上只是一件外套。

- END -

上海大学巴

黎国际时装艺术学院

SHANGHAI_MODART

关注