木刀沟笔记：从无极小吕到安国军诜|堤坝|大沙河|左岸|木刀沟|河流|磁河

梁东方

无极县的小吕在高架起来的708乡道木刀沟大桥边，通向这大桥的村路干脆就直接在桥的半途，不论是转进还是转出都需要看好两个方向上快速通过的车辆，洵非易事。进村的另一种选择是直接走桥边的辅路，绕进村子里去。绕进村子里就会发现与路上的喧嚣对比鲜明的宁静。

宁静是很多河边村落的普遍特点，河流，哪怕是没有了水的河流，也能阻隔住平原上四通八达的交通，为人居营造一片安详。这一段的木刀沟河岸上居然是有很多树木和花朵的，新生了叶子的杨树和正要开花的泡桐都在堤坝路上投下斑驳的影子，影子覆盖了树下随着岸坡自然倾斜的二月兰蓝色的花海，很像是曾经的规划园林被弃之后的自然状态，反而很有一种人工怎么也达不成的自由之状。

树木是栽种的，二月兰却像是野生的，没有被过分管理的公园里的那种千篇一律的整齐，反而有植被在野生状态里的自然而然的美妙。

在这个位置上，宽大的木刀沟河谷被身后的大桥给明确标志了出来，顺着一侧的堤坝向下游走，就成了我兴致勃勃的当下的最佳选择。由此向前，堤坝自然弯曲着经过的村庄有大汉营和小汉、蔡庄等，因为河堤上每到一个村子就会有一个不锈钢支架的河流保护牌，写着河流行经的村庄的名字、保护范围和保护河流的负责人。不准破坏堤坝，不准挖沙，不准向河道里倒垃圾等等都是保护的基本内容。

堤坝按照规矩，隔一段就会有一个深入到河道里去的拦水坝，这个拦水坝一般都会种上树，或者开辟出伸到河道里去的路，以不浪费土地。

这一处的拦水坝上种满了苹果树，苹果树就严格按照堤坝隆起的形状，形成高低错落着互不遮挡，最大程度接受阳光的格式，看起来像是专门伸展到河道里的一道果树风景。堤坝另一侧有一间简易房，上书防汛指挥部几个大字。面对现在完全干涸的木刀沟，防汛是需要一点想象力的事情。但两条堤坝之间显得过分宽大的河道，充分证明着既往防汛的可能性。虽然和平原上一样种着麦子、果树，但河道就是河道，每年汛期都存在着有水、有大水的可能性。

这一段堤坝顶上的路是没有硬化的，崎岖颠簸，要小心蒺藜扎带，遇到有建筑垃圾铺在路上的地方也要下来推行，所以真正能顺畅骑车的路段非常有限。却也为仔细观察堤坝两侧的大地提供了最好的时间容量。只有慢下来才会看到，蒲公英开在堤坝上，以其星星点点洁净的黄，将春天的细节散布到了不被开垦和种植的荒芜堤坝上。

说堤坝荒芜并非是说什么都没有，实际上沿着堤坝内侧的斜坡，几乎一直都有坟墓，各个村庄的坟墓都选择了这样不影响耕地的位置。刚刚过了清明节，每一座被新上过坟、祭奠过的坟丘上都插着一把鲜艳的五彩塑料花。这是本地的传统，也是本地的季节性行为特征的一部分。这样一来，整个堤坝沿线几乎一直都有这样鲜艳的塑料花在绵延。无数人来到这个世界上，无数人离开了这个世界，离开的是一个累积的数量，其庞大近乎无以统计，这些密集的塑料花朵不过是对“无数”的一种象征。象征着这条河养育万物的历史积淀，也象征着人间曾经轰轰烈烈的喜怒哀乐。

这样的氛围和环境中，人是没有多少感伤或者所谓阴气之下的匆促的。从早晨的寒凉中走到这个时候，上午11点，温暖已经到来，春天的温暖，柔和、温馨地充满了生命最可珍惜的当下。

眼前的好消息是，从深泽县的留村乡贾村开始有水泥路面了。水泥路边的树木也多了起来，堤坝之外的村庄、田野、蔬菜大棚、中药种植场，鳞次栉比地出现。穿过定深线上的木刀沟大桥，就到了西内堡。西内堡是一个木刀沟的河道直接从村中穿过的独特地方，站在两岸都是民房、中间一座栏杆已经破损的桥边前瞻与回望，干涸的河流以最贫瘠的方式在平原上固执地向前延伸着走到这里，满是疲惫，也满是执着。

在村北通往七级村的路上，木刀沟左岸的堤坝消失了。好像自此木刀沟就不需要左岸高高的堤坝保护了，一道浅浅的河沟已经足够。http://www.blog.xalulxx.cn/Article/details/26407232.sHtML
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著名的黄巾军领袖张角的家乡就在前面的七级村，至今还有他的墓。这里已经是定州地界了。这一路走下来，在其实不是很长的距离中，木刀沟完美地连接了无极、深泽、定州和安国。远远地在大地上望见一片楼，那就是一座县城。

七级村北是北内堡村，东边是东内堡。沿着木刀沟的右岸堤坝走，可以完美的绕开这些村子，但是堤顶道路上的蒺藜依旧会不断扎到轮胎上来，让人不敢骑行，只能推着走，走一段就要清理一次。走走停停地到了安国的伍仁桥，看了关汉卿墓，就到了军诜村。军诜这个名字很奇怪，单单是这个诜字认识的人就不多，能正确读出其发音的就更少了。村子里的街道很窄，赶上过集市，车辆通过就很艰难。村子里卖一种烧饼卷肉，看着很诱人，但是连着看了几个摊位无一例外都是老板直接用手将肉夹到烧饼里再递给顾客的，只好作罢。

村口的英雄纪念碑正对着路口，对着越过高高的木刀沟大坝下坡而来的大路。有意思的是，这里反而叫木刀沟为磁河了，安国八景之一的渡口夕阳，指的就是沙河、唐河、磁河三河的交汇。其实唐河早已改道，现在从北侧汇入大沙河的应该是孟良河。

木刀沟到了这里彻底结束了自己从新乐迤逦而下的径流，当然也可以说是更长更远的磁河在这里走到了尽头。它以早已干涸的方式将自己弯弯曲曲的河道最后从东向扭转成北向，汇入依旧有水的大沙河中，成为潴龙河。前方是它们汇合被称为潴龙河以后遇到的第一座大桥，231省道上的大桥，我注意到它的名字被标为沙河特大桥。大桥稳稳地、高高地横亘在那里，会是关于我沿着另一条河的行走的起点位置吧。