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广东一到夏天就热得不行,还特别湿,身上老是黏糊糊的。本地人吃东西讲究个应季,什么季节吃什么菜,不光是图个新鲜,也是因为身体在那个时节就需要那口东西。

热天出汗多,人容易乏,胃口也差,所以菜市场里卖什么最当造,老广心里都有数。下面说三道夏天常吃的菜。

头一道,凉瓜炒牛肉。

凉瓜其实就是苦瓜,广东这边夏天最不缺的就是它。挑凉瓜有讲头,别买那种个头特别大、颜色浅绿发白的,那种太老,苦味重,肉质也绵,炒出来不脆。

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要买就买那种深绿色、身上那些凸起的瘤状疙瘩看着饱满紧实的,拿在手里沉甸甸的,这种嫩,切开后里面的瓤和那层白膜都比较薄。牛肉呢,就买牛里脊或者腿肉靠里的那块,没有那么多筋。切的时候注意,要逆着肉的纹理切,把那些长纤维切断,这样炒出来才嫩,不然咬不动。

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做这道菜,步骤稍微有点讲究。苦瓜洗干净,对半剖开,把里面的籽和那层白瓤刮干净,这东西是最苦的,刮得越干净苦味越淡。

然后斜着刀把苦瓜切成薄片,不用太薄,大概两三毫米厚就行。切好后撒点盐进去,用手抓匀了搁一边腌五到八分钟,你会看到苦瓜出了不少水,把水倒掉,再用清水冲一遍,这样苦味就去掉大半了。

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牛肉切好后放碗里,加点酱油、蚝油、一点点白糖、生粉,用手抓,抓到牛肉表面发黏,所有调料都吃进去了,最后倒点食用油进去封一下,腌个十五分钟。

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这一步很重要,油能把水分锁住,下锅的时候不容易老。锅要烧到冒烟,倒油,油稍微多一点,把牛肉倒进去快速划散,看到牛肉变色了就马上盛出来,别在锅里久留。

锅里的底油留着,把蒜片、豆豉、姜丝丢进去爆香,然后把苦瓜倒进去,开大火猛炒,炒到苦瓜颜色变得更绿、断生就可以了,大概也就一分钟的事。这时候把刚才炒好的牛肉倒回去,沿着锅边淋一点点料酒,快速翻匀了就出锅。这菜炒好了,苦瓜吃着是脆的,带一点回甘,牛肉滑嫩,夏天吃它,人是觉得通泰的,能开胃,也能帮着去去身上的湿气。

第二道说道汤,冬瓜薏米煲水鸭。

夏天出汗多,水分流失快,喝汤是广东人每天的功课。冬瓜要选那种黑皮冬瓜,皮越黑越深越好,瓜身上有一层白霜似的粉,用手指甲掐一下皮,硬实的说明瓜肉厚实。这道汤有个关键,冬瓜别削皮,洗干净了连皮切大块,皮煲汤有股清香味,而且皮里的东西对身体也好。

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薏米买回来提前用冷水泡一两个小时,不泡的话不容易煲烂。水鸭就是那种小的麻鸭或者青头鸭,肉瘦,没什么肥油,煲出来的汤清。买的时候让档主帮忙剁成块。

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煲汤没什么花哨动作,就是费时间。水鸭和几块猪骨头一起冷水下锅,烧开了煮两三分钟,水面会浮起一层沫子,把那层沫子撇掉,把肉捞出来用温水冲一下。拿个砂锅,把焯好水的鸭肉和骨头放进去,泡好的薏米也倒进去,再放一小块陈皮,陈皮要把里面那层白囊刮掉,不然汤会发苦,再拍一块姜。加满水,大火烧开,然后转到最小的火,慢慢煲。煲上一个钟头之后,把切好的冬瓜块放进去,继续用小火煲半个钟头左右。

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关火前再放盐,盐放早了肉容易柴。这汤煲出来是清亮亮的,冬瓜已经煲得透明了,鸭肉也烂了,喝起来很润,不会觉得油腻。对那些整天待在空调房里、觉得没什么精神、吃饭不香的人,喝这个汤挺舒服的。

第三道做个素的,蒜蓉蒸丝瓜。

广东这边管那种有棱角的丝瓜叫胜瓜,夏天也是大量上市的时候。挑这种丝瓜要挑那种瓜身硬邦邦的,棱角分明,皮是深绿色的,手指按下去感觉紧实。如果拿起来感觉有点软,或者棱角已经不太明显了,那就是老了,里面会有硬瓤,不好吃。

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这道菜最简单,但味道很清爽。丝瓜把那层硬皮刨掉,但不用刨得太干净,稍微留一点青青的皮,蒸出来颜色好看。然后把它切成大概四厘米长的一段一段,整齐码在盘子里。蒜头要多,拍碎了切成蒜末,取一半蒜末用油小火炸到金黄色,连油带蒜一起倒进生蒜末里,加点盐搅匀,这就叫金银蒜,比单用生蒜香得多。把这蒜蓉均匀铺在每个丝瓜段上。

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蒸锅水开了以后,把盘子放进去,盖上盖子大火蒸八分钟。时间一到就拿出来,淋一点点蒸鱼豉油,撒上葱花。另起一个小锅烧一点油,油冒烟了趁热浇在蒜蓉和葱花上,会听到刺啦一声响,那个香味一下就上来了。丝瓜蒸完软软的,一咬全是汁水,蒜香浓郁,又不会掩盖丝瓜本身的清甜,夏天吃很合适。

这三道菜,一个炒的,一个汤,一个蒸的,都不算复杂,关键是料要买对,火候要把握好。热天里做饭的人辛苦,但坐在桌上吃到这些合时令的菜,人觉得舒服,也算是没白费那身汗。

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https://github.com/murphyandrew4789/zxplvu/blob/main/20260901_DrpnvtJHzB.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_udgWOipVwM.md
https://github.com/cookmegan41/cnjchg/blob/main/20260901_DmFcsjpJKU.md
https://github.com/collinsjonathan5959/hzsjhy/blob/main/20260901_hoZrfnLBdv.md
https://github.com/boonemary17/mtutld/blob/main/20260901_MFnShBjUsr.md
https://github.com/matthewswilliam535/zjwrfe/blob/main/20260901_uVhVnIDuVb.md
https://github.com/lovetracey68/mcqozb/blob/main/20260901_KVREDJRUQK.md
https://github.com/murphyandrew4789/zxplvu/blob/main/20260901_HbIQtfSWBN.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_zpuLqsDZKO.md
https://github.com/cookmegan41/cnjchg/blob/main/20260901_WAnRNrGvqR.md
https://github.com/collinsjonathan5959/hzsjhy/blob/main/20260901_OMYgyMHQQY.md
https://github.com/boonemary17/mtutld/blob/main/20260901_hEPbxdPYSU.md
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https://github.com/lovetracey68/mcqozb/blob/main/20260901_ESDIASaYjh.md
https://github.com/murphyandrew4789/zxplvu/blob/main/20260901_qgEDVdAzkb.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_VjNlGvqUzu.md
https://github.com/boonemary17/mtutld/blob/main/20260901_VqaLjrjUmu.md
https://github.com/cookmegan41/cnjchg/blob/main/20260901_PGJbkhtLtF.md
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https://github.com/lovetracey68/mcqozb/blob/main/20260901_MUtIQstBZL.md
https://github.com/murphyandrew4789/zxplvu/blob/main/20260901_AlpNinuPni.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_bzdYrwhJOn.md
https://github.com/cookmegan41/cnjchg/blob/main/20260901_sAUasDvfWs.md
https://github.com/collinsjonathan5959/hzsjhy/blob/main/20260901_kbCbGevjzr.md
https://github.com/boonemary17/mtutld/blob/main/20260901_zMTFQtXOjh.md
https://github.com/matthewswilliam535/zjwrfe/blob/main/20260901_QNYOgKMuSm.md
https://github.com/lovetracey68/mcqozb/blob/main/20260901_LivdjhVApH.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_OMcnlDBTlm.md
https://github.com/murphyandrew4789/zxplvu/blob/main/20260901_OtdljHMlZe.md
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https://github.com/collinsjonathan5959/hzsjhy/blob/main/20260901_UdnPmgsokk.md
https://github.com/boonemary17/mtutld/blob/main/20260901_UYczRMxFJE.md
https://github.com/matthewswilliam535/zjwrfe/blob/main/20260901_cDGSEweCns.md
https://github.com/lovetracey68/mcqozb/blob/main/20260901_pTOIkvDEqL.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_jbLHPRHzHK.md
https://github.com/murphyandrew4789/zxplvu/blob/main/20260901_TPeZeSAiqL.md
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https://github.com/matthewswilliam535/zjwrfe/blob/main/20260901_zzJtzEfApe.md
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https://github.com/lovetracey68/mcqozb/blob/main/20260901_ZmGqyBmKCi.md
https://github.com/collinsjonathan5959/hzsjhy/blob/main/20260901_aaOycXfarD.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_tNZUTYUGLQ.md
https://github.com/cookmegan41/cnjchg/blob/main/20260901_VwDxFNIcAF.md
https://github.com/murphyandrew4789/zxplvu/blob/main/20260901_kIbzxpVnYt.md
https://github.com/lovetracey68/mcqozb/blob/main/20260901_rRdeQPQtbp.md
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https://github.com/matthewswilliam535/zjwrfe/blob/main/20260901_XUwSvJbQbS.md
https://github.com/fowlercorey3/lwvagx/blob/main/20260901_RIGgVGUUGL.md
https://github.com/cookmegan41/cnjchg/blob/main/20260901_mJBmtEzQvQ.md