人均20块就吃撑！来杭州，这10样小吃您千万别错过，绝对颠覆认知

说杭州，得从两千多年前说起。

秦始皇南巡，在钱塘江边设了钱唐县，这是杭州的前身。

那时西湖还是个江湾，潮水一来，一片汪洋。

隋炀帝开凿大运河，把杭州和北方拴在了一起，这地方才算真正通了气。

后来南宋定都临安，一百五十年间，北方的面食南方的米，汴京的咸鲜遇上钱塘的清淡，杭州人的口味就这么杂糅出来了。

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一碗片儿川，雪菜笋片瘦肉片，汤浓面劲，就是南北交融的活证据。

杭州人有讲究。

立夏吃乌米饭，南烛叶汁浸糯米，乌黑油亮，撒上白糖，说是祛风解毒。

端午不止划龙舟，还得吃“五黄”，黄鱼、黄鳝、黄瓜、咸蛋黄、雄黄酒，

一桌子摆出来，江南的湿毒都得退三步。

老杭州过日子，就图这份踏实。

冬至那晚，家家户户要“扫疰”，拿新扫帚在屋里虚扫一圈，嘴里念叨几句，一年的晦气就算扫出去了。

这些规矩没什么人写在书上，但一辈传一辈，比法典还管用。

钱塘江是杭州的命，也是杭州的劫。

历史上这条江改过三次道，秦汉走南边，宋元甩到北面，每改一次，多少村子就沉江底了。

可杭州人认死理，江走了，人跟着走，田淹了，再开荒。

八月十八大潮，吞天沃日，敢下水弄潮的都是拿命搏。

这种“坍江不坍志”的性子，就长在杭州人的骨头里。

最后得说吃。

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东坡肉是苏轼在杭州当官时留下的，慢火少水，炖到酥烂，百姓送的猪肉，他教人这么烧，一道菜里炖的是官民的情分。

西湖醋鱼更绝，草鱼湖里现捞，饿养三天去土腥，沸水氽熟，浇上糖醋汁，那口鲜甜酸，就是西湖水的味道。

杭州人喝茶也讲究，明前龙井，八九十度的水冲下去，叶子一旗一枪立起来，抿一口，把整个春天咽下去了。

这座城，说到底就是一句话：湖山是皮肉，烟火是筋骨。

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浙菜里的硬角儿。

这东西根子深，800多年前南宋就有了，那时杭州是都城，酱鸭跟着运河传遍江南。

到了清代更不得了，成了达官显贵送礼的佳品，人称"官礼酱鸭"，

跟北京烤鸭、南京板鸭齐名。

《杭俗遗风》里写得明白：每年八九月，各酒肆自制酱鸭，多者数百少者百余，远从上海都有人来买，过冬至就卖光。

鲁迅1935年给他妈写信还提过："酱鸭酱肉，略起白花，蒸过之后，味仍不坏。

"丰子恺在《湖畔夜饮》里也写，端上来四只盆子。

酱鸭、酱肉、皮蛋、花生米，跟老友喝酒就靠这个。你说这鸭，八百年了，还没过时。

做法嘛，讲究。

绍兴麻鸭配湖羊酱油，洗、腌、晾、熬、酱、晒六道工序，气温得在5℃以下，高了就坏。

先腌后酱，腌时撒盐和火硝，再浸酱油48小时，中间翻身，最后晒三到五天。

蒸出来色泽枣红油亮，肉质紧实微弹，酱香浓郁咸鲜适口。

老杭州人讲："酱鸭之于杭州，就如同饺子之于北方人。"

嘿，这话不是吹的，是八百年的底气。

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杭州人的命，是榨菜鲜肉月饼给的。

说起这饼，得往清朝康熙年间扯。

传说康熙下江南到杭州，糕点师傅献上这月饼，龙颜大悦，从此扎根杭州。

但较真讲，涪陵榨菜1898年才诞生，康熙1722年就驾崩了，中间差一百多年。

所以另一说更靠谱。

出自杭州老字号五味和，最早是食堂师傅做的夜宵，吃的人多了才上架。

采芝斋1928年创立就拿它当招牌，到今年九十多年了。

杭州人讲："杭州只有两种月饼，鲜肉榨菜和其他月饼。"这话不是吹的。

做法讲究。

猪后腿肉三肥七瘦剁成泥，涪陵榨菜切碎拌进去，加葱姜水顺一个方向搅上劲。

面皮分水油皮和油酥，反复擀卷三四次，层次才出得来。

烤箱180到200度，烤20来分钟，出炉酥皮直掉渣，咬一口汁水往外冒，咸鲜得很。

中秋不吃这口，总觉得少点啥。

讲白了，这饼吃的不是月饼，是杭州人骨子里那点念想。

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这东西，说白了就是杭州人刻在骨子里的念想。

南宋建炎四年（1130年），金兀术被韩世忠堵在黄天荡，死磕四十九天。

老百姓送糕劳军，糕里藏纸条："敌营像定榫，头大细腰身，当中一斩断，两头勿成形"。

韩世忠当夜出兵，拦腰截断，金军大溃。

这糕原叫"定榫糕"，谐音成了"定胜糕"。《梦粱录》里白纸黑字记着。

从唐代常熟的"定升糕"到明代的"鼎盛糕"，再到今天，近千年了。

你说这块糕里头，装的是啥？是老百姓的心气儿。

做法不复杂。

粳米和糯米按七比三磨粉，加红曲粉，过筛填进梨木模具，中间塞豆沙，旺火蒸十来分钟。

出锅两头大中间细，像银锭子，粉红粉红的。

咬一口，松软香甜，米香裹豆香，甜而不腻。

杭州人老话讲："吃块定胜糕，心里定定胜，日子嘛，总归是好的。"

这话糙，理不糙。

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这东西，说起来有一千多年history了。

五代十国那会儿，赵匡胤在安徽寿县打仗被围，粮都断了，

老百姓拿栗子面炸了饼送去，他吃完说了句："此真大救驾也！"

后来当了皇帝，这饼就进了御厨。

南宋迁都临安，御厨把方子带到民间，

吴山一带的人改用面粉起酥，就成了现在的吴山酥油饼。

苏东坡有回冒雨游吴山，买了几只吃，说这饼一丝一丝的像身上的蓑衣，

取名叫"蓑衣饼"。

后来"蓑衣"跟"酥油"念着念着就混了，干脆叫酥油饼。

清代《儒林外史》里提过它，袁枚《随园食单》里记了做法，郁达夫也写过，说好吃是好吃，就是吃不饱。

杭州人讲："这饼啊，灵得很！"

做法不复杂。

面粉分两份，一份加花生油揉成油酥，一份用沸水烫成雪花粉再加冷水揉成水油面。

油酥包进水油面，擀开卷起来，反复三次，对剖成两个饼坯，刀纹朝上摊成碗形。

油烧六成热，下锅炸到玉白色，捞出撒绵白糖、糖桂花、青梅末、玫瑰花碎。

成品金黄透亮，层酥叠起，上尖下圆像座小金山。

咬一口"咔嚓"一声，酥得掉渣又不碎，油而不腻，甜而不齁。

杭州老话讲："吴山第一点"，这话不是吹的。

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不是猫的耳朵，是面做的。

这东西老了，北魏《齐民要术》里就记着"馎饦"，跟它一个模样。

到了元代，山西人叫它"圪搓面"，骑马打猎的人当吉利饭吃，还进过御宴。

最出彩的故事是清乾隆年间。

乾隆坐小船游西湖，突然落雨，躲船舱里饿得慌。

老渔翁说有面没擀面杖。

他孙女抱着猫说："我用手捻！"面团揪一块，大拇指一推，猫耳朵就成了。

煮熟浇鱼虾卤汁，乾隆吃美了，问叫啥，姑娘说"猫耳朵"。

得，就这么传开了。

做法不复杂，但极讲究。

高筋面粉加盐和面，醒半小时。擀薄片切丁，大拇指一推，成了。

汤底拿鸡汤打底，虾仁、火腿、鸡丁、香菇、干贝一样样往里搁，火腿丁红得像玛瑙，鸡丁白得像琥珀。

一口下去，鲜得眉毛掉。

1997年评上中华名小吃。

杭州人讲，"吃碗猫耳朵，日子才有滋味"，嗯，就是这个理儿。

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来历没正经记载，但民间传得最广的是乾隆下江南那档子事。

龙舟迷路误入吴江黎里一座破庙，方丈拿糯米粉包豆沙油氽了端上来。

乾隆见那东西圆扁金黄，活像庙里香案前的蒲墩，说"就叫油墩吧"。

这一叫，几百年就过去了。

也有说法讲它从潮汕猪脚圈演变来，到了江浙，馅儿才换成萝卜丝。

做法看着粗，实则要命。

面糊不干不稀，萝卜丝切得匀，水分挤得准。

白铁漏勺模具，先舀面糊垫底，铺萝卜丝，再盖面糊入油锅。

火候大了外焦里生，小了炸不透。炸到自个儿脱模浮起，金黄。

捞出来趁热咬，外头嘎嘣脆，里头糯叽叽，咸鲜带辣。

凉了就废了，皮不脆馅不鲜，啥都没了。

从前摆摊的都是退休老奶奶，竹椅、煤球炉、骨牌凳儿，弄堂口一摆就开张。

如今快绝种了。

杭州话讲"活络活络"，做油墩儿就得活络，慢一步这东西就废了。

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杭州民间小吃，浙菜系里的老底子早点。

说起这东西，根子扎在南宋。

那会儿岳飞抗金打到快直捣黄龙，秦桧跟高宗弄了十二道金牌把人召回来，

最后"莫须有"三个字，把岳飞害死在杭州风波亭。

老百姓恨啊，恨到骨头里。

有个点心师傅，捏了俩面人象征秦桧夫妇，扭一块儿丢油锅里炸，叫"油炸桧儿"。

怕秦桧追究，把木字旁的"桧"换成火字旁的"烩"。

这一换，快900年了。

做法不难。

春饼裹油条、小葱，铁锅上压烤，铲子使劲摁，两面焦黄出壳。

抹甜面酱，再来点辣酱。

饼皮脆，油条酥，葱段冲鼻子，一口下去层次分明。

杭州人讲"老灵额"！

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杭州人的命根子。

清同治六年（1867年），奎元馆在杭城官巷口开了张。

那年乡试，书生穷得叮当响，店主心善，拿倒笃菜、笋片、瘦肉片一锅炒，碗里再卧三只蛋，图个"连中三元"。

嘿，还真邪。

有个书生吃了这面，中了解元，放榜那天特地跑来题了"奎元馆"仨字当招牌。

这面就这么传开了。

1935年闹过"真假梅兰芳"的笑话，登了《东南日报》，名气更大。

1956年评上杭州名点名小吃，2013年进了"中国十大名面条"。一算，一百五十多年了。

做法不花哨，但桩桩件件讲究。

猪油下锅，肉片先煸，笋片跟上，倒笃菜最后撒，沸水一激，浇头齐活。

面条用本地碱水面，筋道，八分熟捞起跟浇头同烧。

端上桌啥样？

汤浓面滑，笋脆肉嫩，雪菜咸鲜。

杭州人讲，"鲜得来眉毛都要掉下来咯"。

一碗面，一百五十多年，吃的不是面，是日子。

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这东西，得从1913年说起。

孙翼斋在杭州仁和路开了"知味观"，店名取自《礼记·中庸》，"人莫不饮食也，鲜能知味也"。

小笼包的根在北宋开封，叫灌汤包，

靖康之变后跟着宋室南渡，落了杭州。

到20世纪30年代，知味观把它做到了头。1988年拿全国"金鼎奖"，

一口小笼，半部杭城史。

做法不复杂，但极讲究。

死面皮，不发酵，靠三揉三醒的功夫把面揉出韧劲。

馅用猪前腿肉，肥瘦四比一，灵魂在那勺肉皮冻。

文火熬五小时，胶质熬尽，蒸时化汤。

一只含汤八毫升，褶子捏十八到二十二道，收口如鲫鱼嘴，急火蒸六分钟，皮薄得透光。

分鲜肉、虾肉、鸡火三种。

吃法有规矩："轻轻提、慢慢移、先开窗、后吸汁"，蘸姜丝香醋。

老杭州人讲，"知味停车"，这话不是瞎说的。

一口下去，汁多味鲜，馅嫩不腻，嘿，这才叫知味。

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这东西，得从清同治六年（1867年）说起，159年了。

杭州奎元馆首创，彼时钱塘江鳝鱼多得是，河虾却金贵，渔民搭着卖，面就这么诞生了。

1935年，梅兰芳在杭州吃完，提笔写下"朵颐大快"。

金庸半年里头三顾奎元馆，就为这碗面。

书画大家程十发题匾"江南面王"。

老底子杭州人讲："到杭州不吃虾爆鳝，等于没来过。"这话，不虚。

做法就一个字，讲究。

"三油"工艺：素油爆、荤油炒、麻油浇。

鳝鱼挑拇指粗、每斤5条的壮鳝，饿养3到7天吐泥腥，剔骨切段，菜油炸到皮起小泡；

虾仁鲜河虾现剥，蛋清上浆，滑油至玉白。

面条拿鳝鱼原汁煮，吸满鲜味。

成品啥样？鳝片黄亮香脆，虾仁洁白滑嫩，面条柔韧筋道。

老饕总结18字诀："筋、滑、柔；鲜、香、咸；嫩、脆、爽"。

啧，一口下去，四美兼之，这才叫杭州味道。

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杭州人吃东西，不张扬。

定胜糕粉粉的，咬一口，心里踏实。

油墩儿得趁热，凉了就不是那个味。

片儿川一碗下去，日子就有奔头。

酱鸭挂阳台，风吹日晒，跟这城一样，熬得住。

你说这些吃的多复杂？

不复杂。

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大妈捻猫耳朵，拇指一推，几十年就过去了。

大爷炸酥油饼，油锅一起，千年的故事浮上来。

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杭州人把吃融进日子里，不紧不慢，不争不抢。

湖山是皮肉，烟火是筋骨。咬一口葱包烩，外脆里韧，像这城，看着软，骨子里硬。

你来，坐西湖边，吃碗虾爆鳝面，喝杯明前龙井，春天就咽下去了。