入秋以后,最先难受的往往不是肚子,是嘴和鼻子先闹情绪。早上起床口干,白天嗓子发紧,晚上睡觉皮肤还绷得像拉紧了的面皮。这个时候,很多人还想着大鱼大肉补一补,结果吃完更腻,胃口更差,整个人懒洋洋的,跟山东这秋天的风一样,吹得人没精神。
老话说得糙,但理不糙,秋吃地下宝,秋冬少操劳。所谓地下宝,就是土里长出来的根茎菜,芋头、山药、红薯、土豆、萝卜这些,平常不显山不露水,到了秋天反倒成了桌上的硬角色。它们共同的特点就是水分足、口感稳、做法家常,适合一家老小吃,不挑嘴,不折腾胃。
这篇里说的不是啥花里胡哨的大补方子,讲的就是秋天最适合轮着吃的几样根茎菜。思路很清楚,先抓住秋燥这个大问题,再用温润、平和、少油少腻的家常做法去对冲。不是非得找贵食材才叫养生,顺着季节吃,嘴舒服,胃舒服,人也舒坦,这才是过日子的路数。
先说芋头汤。秋天早晚凉,很多人一到这时候就想喝点热乎的,芋头就很合适。芋头蒸熟后粉粉糯糯,口感细,肚子里也不顶。配上糯米圆子和牛奶,再加一点冰糖,热腾腾端上来,早晨喝一碗,或者晚上睡前来半碗,整个人都软和下来。芋头这东西在民间一直有地气,做粥、做汤、做甜品都能撑场面,老少都能碰,尤其对吃饭没胃口的人来说,真不赖。
做法也不复杂。芋头去皮切块,上锅蒸到筷子一戳就透,锅里放一点水和冰糖,化开后把芋头下进去小火煮几分钟,再倒牛奶搅匀,最后放熟好的糯米圆子。别看步骤简单,关键就在火候和搭配,芋头的粉、圆子的弹、牛奶的香,搁一块儿就很顺。山东人讲究实在,这碗汤没有虚头巴脑的架势,喝下去却是实打实的舒服。
再说山药。山药在秋天真是个好东西,价格不算贵,平时菜市场里一买一大把,做法还多。山药本身口感温润,煮粥、清炒、炖汤都行,最适合那些一到秋天就觉得脾胃发沉的人。这里做成糖醋山药,路子就很巧,既保留山药脆嫩的口感,又靠酸甜口把胃口吊起来。
铁棍山药去皮后切长条,先用清水泡一泡,免得发黏。焯水两分钟,捞出来沥干,再调糖醋汁,按家里口味来,别死板。锅里加一点油,山药下去翻一翻,料汁一裹,酸甜香气一下就出来了。山药一入口,脆里带嫩,酸甜开胃。家里要是中午吃了排骨、红烧肉,晚上再来这盘,真是把油腻劲儿给它压下去了。
很多人觉得秋天就得大补,炖鸡炖鸭炖羊肉轮番上,结果吃着吃着上火、嘴苦、便秘,难受得很。其实山药这种平和的食材,反倒更适合普通家庭。尤其家里有老人孩子,吃这个没有太大负担,温温和和的,稳当。
红薯也得提,秋天的蜜薯就像地里藏着的甜点。它最厉害的地方不是甜,而是甜得自然,不腻人。蒸着吃、煮着吃、烤着吃都行,这里把它做成蜜汁红薯,主要是为了把那股软糯香甜发挥到极致。再加一点橙汁,带点果香,吃起来就不像普通糖水那么单调。
蜜薯切大块,锅里放冰糖、蜂蜜、麦芽糖和清水,小火慢慢熬,等糖化开后把红薯放进去,一边小火焖,一边翻面,让每一块都裹上透亮的糖汁。等到汤汁浓稠,红薯表面发亮,就能出锅。这个做法看着像甜品,其实比外面卖的点心实在多了。午后嘴馋的时候来一块,饭后想解腻的时候来两块,既顶饿又不折腾人。
红薯这东西,过去在很多地方都算寻常口粮,老百姓靠它顶过饥荒,也靠它过过苦日子。现在条件好了,它又成了桌上的健康甜口。做得好,既有老味道,也有新吃法。山东这边很多人一到秋天,厨房里总少不了这一口,蒸锅一揭盖,香气直往外窜,孩子闻着就跑过来。
土豆是另一样特别接地气的菜。别看它平平无奇,到了秋天,真是百搭。这里做法是煎土豆片配韭菜,听着朴素,吃起来很下饭。土豆性子温和,口感绵,少油一煎,外边微微焦脆,里头还是软的,特别适合配米饭、面条,甚至就着馒头吃都顺口。
土豆切厚片,先清水洗掉淀粉,这一步别偷懒,不然煎的时候容易粘锅。平底锅少放点油,慢慢煎到两面金黄,撒点盐和椒盐提味。最后把韭菜段放进去,快速翻十秒,韭菜一出香,整锅就活了。这个组合很像山东人的性格,不花哨,但耐看耐吃,端上桌就有人动筷子。
秋天吃土豆还有个好处,耐饱。家里要是有两个半大小子,正是长身体的时候,一顿饭没有点顶饿的,回头就喊饿。土豆就很合适,既能当菜,也能当主食的帮手。少油少盐做一盘,孩子吃了不腻,大人吃了不撑,属于一家人都能接住的菜。
白萝卜丝在秋天也不能少。这个菜看着简单,实际上很顶用。秋天早晚温差大,有时候中午吃得多,晚上又没胃口,来一盘酸辣萝卜丝,立马把味觉叫醒。萝卜本身就有清爽的劲儿,切成细丝后稍微腌一腌,挤掉多余水分,再加蒜末、小米辣、生抽、香醋和一点香油,拌匀以后,脆、酸、辣、香全有了。
这类凉拌菜在秋天特别实用。它不抢戏,却能把一桌荤菜的油腻往下压。很多家庭吃饭,最怕大盘子一上来,满桌都是肉,吃着吃着就发沉。萝卜丝一摆上桌,口腔一下清爽了,胃口也重新打开。老话说冬吃萝卜夏吃姜,不劳医生开药方,虽然不能照搬,但萝卜在秋天确实是个实在角色,便宜、好买、做法灵活。 http://m.htrck.cn/article/details/43276.shtml
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其实说到底,秋天这几样地下菜,核心不是稀奇,而是顺。顺着季节吃,顺着身体的感觉吃,顺着家里人的口味吃。比起一味追求名贵食材,普通人家更适合这种踏踏实实的吃法。芋头温润,山药平和,红薯甜软,土豆耐饱,萝卜清爽,各有各的脾气,也各有各的本事。
咱山东人过日子,讲究一个实诚。饭桌上不一定非得摆得像酒席,关键是家里人吃得舒坦。老人咬得动,孩子愿意吃,大人吃完不犯困,这顿饭就算值。秋天本来就容易干,饮食上少点油炸,少点重口,轮着吃这些根茎菜,嘴巴不受罪,胃也不闹腾。https://gitlab.com/oscaryoungo1svc/acyytij/-/blob/main/48340.md
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https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/42376.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/68335.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/34091.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/70842.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/59148.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/64867.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/74535.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/03741.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/95636.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/02965.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/41571.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/46130.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/21500.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/65044.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/15431.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/80762.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/38127.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/23919.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/97399.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/07915.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/14937.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/49161.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/23968.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/19390.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/80785.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/81401.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/70785.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/76567.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/36678.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/18280.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/98632.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/90043.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/69292.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/31733.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/30065.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/48720.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/95709.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/41629.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/60216.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/63327.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/28661.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/63551.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/06530.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/92519.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/21907.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/64015.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/82672.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/19961.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/09641.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/65636.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/95093.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/96375.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/10335.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/34959.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/55478.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/17914.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/91649.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/87163.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/97258.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/94990.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/67962.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/80656.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/17711.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/78397.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/22398.md
https://gitlab.com/oscaryoungo1svc/acyytij/-/blob/main/72116.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/32761.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/07258.md
https://gitlab.com/yingdalexoqfx/axqnual/-/blob/main/44110.md
https://gitlab.com/billywardrvjez/aekvasx/-/blob/main/14604.md
https://gitlab.com/justinwebbhp7ya/azelkxj/-/blob/main/07450.md
https://gitlab.com/markclarkzn2ct/ckdqzmf/-/blob/main/35112.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverstoneywc81/axuchna/-/blob/main/59900.md
https://gitlab.com/oscaryoungo1svc/acyytij/-/blob/main/05401.md
https://gitlab.com/zackwadei9i7h/arwbnlc/-/blob/main/25203.md
https://gitlab.com/jackwestz1gzt/aisrxyk/-/blob/main/04094.md
https://gitlab.com/samdavisubu6d/cdtqlgm/-/blob/main/51406.md
https://gitlab.com/peterwolfy9f6y/arxqwnf/-/blob/main/43299.md
这几样菜放在一起看,做法都不难,原料也都是菜市场常见货。它们没有大补的架势,却有日常的稳定感。早上喝芋头汤,午饭配山药,下午来块红薯,晚上煎个土豆片,再拌一盘萝卜丝,家里的秋天就很有章法。哪怕外头风一吹,人回到家,桌上有热气、有香气、有实在劲儿,心里也就踏实了。
你家入秋以后,最先端上桌的那道根茎菜是哪一个,芋头、山药、红薯、土豆,还是萝卜丝。
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