广东人做鱼，讲究一个“鲜”字。清蒸、白灼、啫啫，都是把鱼的本味发挥到极致。啫啫海鲈鱼算是其中特别有烟火气的一种，砂锅烧得滚烫，鱼块一放进去，“啫啫”声就响起来了，那声音听着就馋人。做这道菜，鱼得选新鲜的。海鲈鱼最好，肉嫩刺少，一斤左右的刚好，太大不容易入味。买回来让摊主处理好，回家再冲洗一遍，把肚子里的黑膜刮干净，不然会有腥味。擦干水分，切成两三厘米厚的块，别切太薄，不然一煮就散了。
腌鱼这一步不能省。加一勺生抽、半勺蚝油、一点点白胡椒粉，再放一小勺淀粉，抓匀了腌个十分钟。淀粉能让鱼肉更嫩滑，也能锁住水分。姜切片，蒜拍碎，葱切段，再准备点红椒丝配色，不喜欢辣的可以不放。砂锅烧热，倒比平时炒菜稍多一点的油，油热后把姜片和蒜粒放进去，小火慢慢煸出香味。这时候别着急，等蒜粒微微发黄，香味出来了，再把鱼块一块一块码进去，不要翻动，让它贴着锅底煎。大概煎个两三分钟，底部定型了，再轻轻翻面，把另一面也煎一下。
然后沿着锅边淋一圈料酒，盖上盖子，转中小火焖个五六分钟。这时候就能听到锅里“啫啫”响的声音了，特别治愈。开盖的时候小心蒸汽烫手，撒上葱段和红椒丝，再淋一点点生抽提鲜，盖上盖子再焖半分钟，关火上桌。吃的时候直接连砂锅端上去，揭开盖子，热气裹着鱼香扑面而来。鱼肉嫩得不像话，轻轻一夹就脱骨，蒜香和酱香都渗进去了，连汤汁都想拿勺子舀着拌饭。
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这道菜做起来不难，关键就是火候。砂锅一定要烧热，鱼块下锅后别急着翻，让它煎出一点焦香，味道才够足。家里没有砂锅的话，用厚底的不粘锅也行，就是少了点“啫啫”的仪式感。每次做这道菜，家里人都抢着吃。鱼块一上桌，筷子就没停过，最后连砂锅底的汤汁都要刮干净。其实家常菜就是这样，不需要多复杂的调料，食材新鲜，做法用心，味道就不会差。下次想吃鱼的时候，不妨试试啫啫海鲈鱼，听着那“啫啫”声，胃口自然就开了。
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