Anna Piaggi — The Beauty of Eccentricity

The legendary Italian fashion journalist and style icon Anna Piaggi passed away in her home in Milan, 81 years old.

Fashion Icon Anna Piaggi

时尚偶像安娜 皮亚姬

Anna Piaggi was born in Milan in 1931. She worked as a translator for an Italian publishing company Mondadori(蒙达多利出版集团), then wrote for fashion magazines such as the Italian edition of Vogue(《时尚》)and, in the 1980s, the avant-garde(先锋的)magazine Vanity(《名利场》). She was known especially for double-page spreads(两页对开)in the Italian Vogue, where her artistic flair(鉴赏力)was given free expression in a montage(蒙太奇,电影的基本结构手段和叙事方式)of images and text.

From her days cavorting(活跃)around Paris in the 70s with Karl Lagerfeld, Piaggi was a tour de force(奇葩)in the fashion world, known for her eccentric ensembles(全套服装), tilted(歪戴的)hats, and short blue hair. She was one of the group of personalities in the fashion media who became famous for their outrageous(令人叹为观止的)style.

Piaggi was a front row fixture during fashion weeks and a muse to many, including Lagerfeld, who sketched her numerous times, and milliner(女帽制造商)Stephen Jones, who often topped her head with one of his wild hats.

Tip:安娜 皮亚姬最早的身份是意大利版《时尚》专栏作家,她在每期两页的专栏中发表犀利精辟的独到观点,多年来已成为时尚人士必读的流行圣经。造型独特的帽子和头饰、额前一缕五颜六色的卷发、硬币大小的橘色腮红、夸张的服饰搭配、强烈的色彩撞击——这位时尚圈最有影响力的评论家安娜 皮亚姬因特立独行的着装风格而让人印象深刻。安娜 皮亚姬在时尚圈的从业经历已超过60年,在她70多岁的时候,她依然活跃在秀场上,用她充满活力的装扮——包括时髦的帽子和色彩缤纷的发色,表达自己对时尚的态度。

The Influence in Fashion Industry

安娜 皮亚姬的时尚影响力

In 2006 she was the subject of a fashion exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London(伦敦维多利亚-阿尔伯特美术馆). Titled “Anna Piaggi Fashion-ology(安娜 皮亚姬的时尚学问),” the show featured her clothing collection. Piaggi had a large clothes collection, including 2,865 dresses and 265 pairs of shoes, according to the exhibition. She dressed in an exuberant(生气勃勃的)and unique way, never appearing in the same outfit more than once in public.

Her associates in the fashion world included the fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld (from the 1970s), who has often sketched her, and Manolo Blahnik(马诺洛 布拉赫尼克,著名女鞋设计师), who is the designer of many of her shoes. She was also an admirer of British clothes designer Vivienne Westwood(薇薇安 韦斯特伍德,著名时装设计师,人称“西太后”)and her hats.

She lived in New York and visited London and Italy periodically since the 1950s. Piaggi appeared in the New York Times fashion and social photographer Bill Cunningham s(比尔 坎宁安,时尚街拍大师)documentary(纪录片)Bill Cunningham New York(《街拍皇帝》,记录了比尔 坎宁安的街拍历程).

Tip:被大家视为“时装宝库”的安娜 皮亚姬还是“时装史上最权威的收藏家”,她拥有将近3000件礼服、200多双鞋子……2006年,应伦敦著名的维多利亚-阿尔伯特博物馆之邀,安娜公开展出她多年的时装珍藏、论文、时装绘图、做摄影师时拍的照片、时装以及安娜 皮亚姬曾用来写稿的古老打字机,完整地述说了安娜多姿多彩的时尚生涯。安娜 皮亚姬也是众多时尚设计师的缪斯之一,“老佛爷”卡尔 拉格斐、鞋履设计师马诺洛 布拉赫尼克、帽子设计大师斯黛芬 琼斯都曾从她的搭配风格中得到设计灵感。(吕进/选编)

生词表

icon n 圣像,偶像

vogue n 时尚,流行

vanity n 虚荣心,浮华

montage n 蒙太奇(电影中不同镜头的快速连接)

eccentric n 行为古怪的人

tilt v (使)倾斜

outrageous a 蛮横的,残暴的

muse v 沉思

Victoria n 英国的女皇

exuberant a 精力充沛的

designer n 设计者

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