德化这碗“臭名远扬”的汤，外地人不敢喝，本地人三伏天却离不了|咸饭|德化县|本地人|猪大肠|苦菜|野菜

外地人来德化过夏天，十家有九家会先闻到一股怪味，再看到一大碗黑沉沉的苦菜汤端上桌。头一回凑近的人，多半要皱眉头，心里还会嘀咕一句，这玩意儿能喝吗。可德化老少爷们都明白，三伏天里顶一顶，真靠的就是这碗汤。

德化苦菜汤，放在本地不是普通家常菜，是民间第一汤。夏天饭桌上可以少点硬菜，少点荤腥，可这碗汤不能少。早上配稀饭，中午配咸饭，晚上劳作回来，放凉了照样喝，喝下去那股热气、燥气，像被一阵山风吹散了，利索。

这碗汤的底气，不在卖相，在老规矩。苦菜先晒，晒得黑褐油亮，再焯，再泡，再跟筒骨、猪大肠慢炖。汤色沉，味道厚，第一口是苦，第二口开始就有回甘。德化人喝惯了，嘴里说苦，手上可不慢，哐哐两碗下肚，眼都不带眨的，这就是山里人的实在劲儿。

说白了，德化苦菜汤不是为了好看，是为了过日子。戴云山一带山地湿热，老一辈人没那么多花哨调味，靠的就是山里的野菜、家里的骨汤，熬出一口清凉。闽南人讲究食补，福建很多地方都吃苦菜，但德化这一口，偏偏做出了自己的脾气，厚重，耐喝，带着泥土味，也带着烟火气。

德化人爱这口汤，还真不是嘴硬。清末时就有老话传下来，冷天无衣裳，热天一身光，吃的苦菜饭，喝的苦菜汤。那会儿日子紧，吃什么都得算计，可山里人再难，也不把肚子随便糊弄。苦菜晒干存着，一年四季能用，算是一种很聪明的生活法子。

讲到这里，就得说到一个老故事。相传清末德化城关有户大户人家老来得子，杀猪宰牛请客，剩下不怎么吃的猪大肠就赏给雇工。雇工们舍不得浪费，伙房师傅又看见库房里有晒好的苦菜，就把大肠和苦菜一锅炖了。谁成想，这一锅本来是凑活饭，最后竟炖出了名堂，苦中带香，油而不腻，反倒比单煮苦菜好喝得多。

这种事特别像老百姓过日子，没啥排场，靠的是会琢磨。山东人看了也能懂，咱老家很多好吃的，不也是从节省里抠出来的？一锅炖、一锅熬，把不值钱的边角料，做成一家人都惦记的味道，这才是家常菜的真本事。

后来这口味道慢慢从大户后厨流到民间，又和德化的瓷窑绑在了一起。德化自古烧瓷，窑火一烧就是上千度，守窑的人一待就是一整天。窑炉边上热得跟蒸笼似的，汗一冒出来，马上又被火气烤干。那时候窑厂门口的小饭摊，一碗咸饭配一碗苦菜汤，几乎成了固定搭配。

瓷窑工人歇工的时候，蹲在土凳子上，端起碗先喝一口汤，额头上的汗顺着脸往下淌。汤放凉了喝，更利索。苦菜的清气压住油腻，大肠的脂香撑住汤底，一碗下去，肚里有底，身上也不那么燥了。德化千年窑火不只是烧出瓷器，也把这碗汤熬进了地方味道里。

现在很多人一说苦菜汤，觉得就是一锅野菜水，其实真不是那么简单。德化正宗的做法，规矩还挺多。开春要去山上掐最嫩的苦菜尖，不能老，老了就发柴。拿回来不急着焯，先摊在竹编大簸箕里，放到晒埕上暴晒。晒到黑褐发亮，叶子都蜷起来，才算成。

这种晒法看着粗，其实很讲究。晒干以后，苦菜的生涩气会弱下去，留下的是一种陈香。就像腌咸菜，时间一长，味儿就厚了。晒好的苦菜装进袋子，放到干燥的阁楼里，够吃一整年。山里人不怕麻烦，怕的是浪费，这一点特别朴素，也特别硬气。

真到下锅时，先把干苦菜焯透。焯水这一步不能省，不然尘味、硬梗都在，汤口就发飘。接着上筒骨，最好再带点猪大肠，慢慢熬。骨头把汤熬白，大肠把香气熬出来，苦菜在里面一焖，半个钟头起步。出锅时最多撒一勺粗盐，别的调料都不抢戏。

这碗汤的厉害之处，就在于它不靠味精撑场面。现在很多汤一入口就满嘴调料味，喝完舌头发麻。德化苦菜汤不走这个路子，靠的是食材自己说话。骨汤有骨汤的厚，大肠有大肠的香，苦菜有苦菜的清。三样东西一撞，味道不吵不闹，反倒稳当。

德化人还有个习惯，夏天爱喝凉的。汤放凉以后再入口，苦香更明显，顺着喉咙往下走，胃里一下就舒坦了。外地人第一次喝，多半是先皱眉，后挠头，再慢慢觉得有意思。苦不是苦得发狠，是苦里带着回甘，这种劲儿，跟人生还挺像。

福建各地其实都有苦菜汤。永春、安溪也喝，不过多是配排骨、小肠，味道清一些。龙岩那边有叫苦抓汤的，三明一带又叫苦斋汤、苦斋婆，食材大多也是败酱科野菜，做法偏清热。到了德化，偏偏喜欢用猪大肠炖干苦菜，汤黑、味厚、香气足，名声就这么立起来了。

放到全国看，山东、山西、陕西也吃苦菜。北方常见的是苦苣菜、苦荬菜，属于菊科，和德化这边的败酱科苦菜并不是一回事。北方人更多是凉拌、做馅、煮粥，讲究一个清爽。云南、贵州也有苦菜汤，不过多是素煮或者配鲜肉，口味也清。德化这一路，明显更重，更像是把山野和烟火一起炖进锅里了。http://test.cqrongcun.cn/blog/news.php?/86079638.shtml
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这事儿放在今天看，很多人会说，苦菜本身就带点药食同源的意思。中国民间很早就有吃野菜、喝草木汤的习惯，图的就是顺时节、应地气。夏天湿热重，老百姓爱吃清苦之物，不是赶时髦，是照着身体来的。苦菜里本来就含有不少膳食纤维、维生素和矿物质，做成汤，配上骨汤和少量脂香，既不寡，也不腻。

可话说回来，真正把苦菜汤做成德化名片的，还是那股子民间劲儿。它不讲精致，不讲摆盘，端上来黑乎乎一碗，像老实人站在那儿，不会说漂亮话，但靠得住。你喝进去，先觉得苦，过一会儿嘴里又起甜，这种感觉很像山东汉子过日子，嘴上不多说，心里有数，家里有老人孩子，锅里就不能空着。http://test.cqrongcun.cn/blog/news.php?/74235646.shtml
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