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《本期内容》

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环保袋真的环保吗？不完全是。事实证明，大力推行棉布环保袋实际上可能导致了一个新问题。

双语阅读

An organic cottontoteneeds to be used 20,000 times to offset its overall impact of production, according to a 2018 study by the Ministry of Environment and Food of Denmark. That equates to daily use for 54 years — for just one bag. According to that metric, if all 25 of her totes were organic, Ms. Berry would have to live for more than a thousand years to offset her current arsenal. (The study has not beenpeer-reviewed.)

根据丹麦环境和食品部2018年的一项研究，一个有机棉环保袋需要被使用2万次才能抵消生产它所产生的整体影响。这相当于每天都使用同一个袋子，要用54年才行。照这样计算，如果贝瑞的25个环保袋都是有机棉的，她将需要活一千多年才能抵消她目前的环保袋库存带来的影响。（该研究尚未经过同行评审。）

“Cotton is so water intensive,” said Travis Wagner, an environmental science professor at the University of Maine. It’s also associated with , thanks to revelations about the treatment of Uyghurs in Xinjiang, China, which produces 20 percent of the world’s cotton and supplies most Westernfashionbrands. Andfiguring outhow to dispose of a tote in an environmentally low-impact way is not nearly as simple as people think.

“棉花非常耗水，”缅因大学环境科学教授特拉维斯·瓦格纳说。（因国家相关规定，内容无法显示）。全世界20%的棉花由新疆生产，并为大多数西方时尚品牌供货。要弄清楚如何丢弃环保袋才能降低对环境造成的影响，并不像人们想象的那么简单。

You can’t, for example, just put a tote in acompostbin: Maxine Bédat, a director at the New Standard Institute, a nonprofit focused on fashion and sustainability, said she has “yet to find a municipal compost that will accept textiles.” And only 15 percent of the 30 million tons of cotton produced every year actually makes its way to textile depositories.

例如，你不能把环保袋就这样放入堆肥箱中：专注于时尚和可持续发展的非营利组织新标准研究所的主管马克辛·贝达特说，她“尚未找到可以接受纺织品的城市堆肥”。每年生产的3000万吨棉花中，只有15%真正进入了纺织品仓库。

Even when a tote does make it to a treatment plant, most dyes used to print logos onto them are PVC-based and thus not recyclable; they’re “extremely difficult to break down chemically,” said Christopher Stanev, the co-founder of Evrnu, a Seattle-based textile recyclingfirm. Printed patterns have to be cut out of the cloth; Mr. Stanev estimates 10 to 15 percent of the cotton Evrnu receives is wasted this way.

翻译划线句，长按文末小程序码打卡，答案下期公布~印花图案必须从布上剪下来；斯塔内夫估计，Evrnu收到的棉花中有10%-15%因为这个原因被浪费。

The cotton tote dilemma, said Laura Balmond, a project manager for the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular campaign, is “a really good example of unintended consequences of people trying to make positive choices, and not understanding the fulllandscape.”

艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会的“让时尚循环”活动的项目经理劳拉·巴尔蒙德表示，棉布环保袋的两难困境“是一个非常好的例子，说明人们试图做出积极的选择，却没有了解整体情况，这导致了意想不到的后果”。

本文节选自：The New York Times（纽约时报）

发布时间：2021.09.14

作者：GRACE COOK

原文标题：The Cotton Tote Crisis

词汇积累

1.tote