黄昏去菜市买莲蓬，剥出青嫩的莲子，咬一口脆生生的江南。

菜市场在这个点是最舒服的。太阳快落了，暑气散了，摊贩们开始收摊，东西便宜了。我穿过鱼腥味和葱姜味，走到最里面那个卖莲蓬的摊子前。

莲蓬是早上刚摘的，堆在竹筐里，绿得发亮。卖莲蓬的阿婆坐在小板凳上，手里剥着莲子，脚边放着一桶清水。五块钱三个，十块钱七个。我买了十块钱的，阿婆多塞了一个给我，说今天的嫩，回去赶紧吃。

莲蓬捧在手里，沉甸甸的，带着水塘的清气。剥开那层绿色的壳，里面是一粒青白色的莲子，顶上还顶着一小截嫩黄的芯。莲子芯是苦的，可我不挖掉，我喜欢那点苦，咬下去先苦后甜，像喝茶回甘。

咬一口，脆的。不是苹果那种脆，是嫩藕那种脆，轻轻一碰就碎了，汁水在嘴里炸开，清甜清甜的，带着荷叶的味道。那一口下去，好像咬到了什么更远的东西——水塘边的蜻蜓，田埂上的青蛙，采莲人竹竿上滴下来的水珠。

都在这颗莲子里。

我站在菜市场门口，一颗一颗地剥，一颗一颗地吃。晚风吹过来，手里只剩一把莲蓬壳。那个脆生生的味道还在嘴巴里，像把整个江南都含住了。

江南是什么？是乌镇周庄，是小桥流水，是吴侬软语。可那天黄昏，江南是一颗莲子，青嫩的，脆生生的，咬一口，汁水溅出来，溅了一整个夏天。

阿婆说明天还有，早点来。

我说好。

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