芡实、莲子、薏米，三样都是汤水里的老熟人。芡实和薏米提前泡过，莲子去芯。一同下锅，加足清水，再加两片经年的陈皮。陈皮的油点密布，遇热便散出幽幽的香，把一锅淡味的糖水提了气。小火熬上四十分钟，芡实软中带韧，薏米绽开，莲子粉面，汤色微白，浓而不稠。

这碗糖水，重在“清”。不靠红枣桂圆的浓甜，也不靠奶制品的厚滑，只将三样收敛水气的东西拢在一起，借陈皮的香理一理脾气。春夏湿重，人容易胀气、口淡、身子沉，喝一碗下去，不滋不腻，脾胃像被轻轻梳理过，舒服得愿意多动一动。冰糖少放，点到即止，让食物本味浮着。

下午三四点，盛一碗温温地喝。薏米的软、芡实的弹、莲子的绵，在一勺里各有各的存在感。陈皮的香气到最后才来，一点点苦，一点点甘，把回味拉长。小孩子的嘴也挑不出毛病，只觉得这糖水香香的，糯糯的。它是一碗可以常喝的汤水，不温不燥，把湿气一天天送出去。

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