吃早餐，还得是广州！尤其这10样，好吃还不贵，秒杀其他一众城市

我吃过五十年的广州，说几句实的。

这城两千年前就懂得吃。

南越王墓里挖出青铜烤炉，炉底还粘着炭痕，那是当年炙乳猪留下的。

后来海舶带来胡椒，十三行聚拢南北奇珍，一锅汤里烩进了半部通商史。

“食在广州”四个字，是灶火里熬出来的命。

西关老人讲，明朝有个穷秀才伦文叙，卖粥的老板日日拿猪杂碎给他熬粥，后来秀才中了状元，那粥便叫了及第粥。

天没亮，茶楼坐满人，一盅两件，虾饺透亮，水滚茶香。

富的穷的，都端得起那只茶盅。

最见功底的，是半夜街边的镬气。

师傅颠锅，干炒牛河要条条烙焦黄，不断不粘，这是试厨子的硬坎。

而屋里文火正炖着老火靓汤，霸王花、蜜枣，把时辰都熬化了。

广州人信这个：一碗滚汤下去，日子再难，心就定了。

今天，跟诸位聊聊，来广州必吃的早餐，少吃一样算白来！

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这东西有年头了，唐朝就有雏形，《晋书·何曾传》讲"蒸饼上不坼十字不食"，开花馒头才算好吃。

魏晋南北朝北方人南迁，面食手艺跟着过了岭南。

到清末广州开埠，1920年左右大同茶楼用明矾、碳酸氢钙改良发酵，三十年代中期泡打粉一普及，才成了今日"开口笑"的模样。

千几年流转，都揉进这一个包里了，几沧桑。

做法也讲究。

老面种发酵四小时以上，加面种500克、糖150克、面粉150克、溴粉10克、泡打粉15克，揉匀分剂，擀中间厚四周薄。

叉烧切指甲片，蚝油、生抽、糖炒香勾芡拌馅。

捏成"高身雀笼型，大肚收笃"，猛火蒸8分钟，关火焖3分钟。

皮松软弹牙，馅咸甜流汁，顶上自然爆口微露红馅。

老广讲"饮啖茶，食个包"，叉烧包早不是点心，是日子。

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说起广州早茶，虾饺是绕不开的。

这东西起源于20世纪初广州海珠区五凤村的怡珍茶楼，据传是清代世界首富伍秉鉴后人所创，最初叫"五凤鲜虾饺"，皮厚得像普通饺子。

后来点心师傅符焕庭在1920年代动手改良，把皮换成澄面，薄如蝉翼，定下十三道褶的规矩。

到20世纪30年代，广州各大茶楼卖起"水晶虾饺"，一下火了。

百年风云，一只饺子撑起半部广府饮茶史，几厉害！

做法讲究得很：澄面配生粉，滚水烫面揉团醒发，擀皮要中间厚边缘薄，馅用鲜虾、肥肉丁、笋粒，调味落盐糖胡椒粉香油，顺一个方向打到起胶。

包成弯梳形，十三道褶捏匀，大火蒸六到八分钟。

成品皮白如雪半透明，隐约透出粉红虾肉，咬开爆汁，虾肉弹牙，鲜甜嫩滑。

老广讲"无虾饺，不早茶"，配壶普洱，"啖啖都系幸福感啊！"

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广州天光未亮，茶楼后厨已热气腾腾。

老广讲"得闲饮茶"，饮的哪是茶？是干蒸烧卖嘛。

这东西根子在北方。

元代《朴通事》已载"素酸馅稍麦"，皮薄馅露，顶上开口似花。

明代《金瓶梅词话》三提"烧卖"，从路边小吃登入宴席。

清代《证俗文》记其"状如安石榴"。

清末广州"一口通商"，南北点心涌进来，烧卖到了西关变了样——糯米馅换成鲜虾猪肉，北点南用，脱胎换骨。

二十世纪三十年代定型"干蒸"，不用水煮全靠蒸汽熏熟。

做法讲究：

半肥瘦猪肉鲜虾手工剁馅，摔打起胶才弹牙，包入薄云吞皮，菊花槌敲出花边，顶点缀蟹籽，大火蒸七八分钟。

皮薄透光，咬落去肉粒扎实虾肉清甜，香菇暗香浮动，猪油润而不腻，笋粒脆爽收官——粤菜"清而不淡，鲜而不俗"就搁这一口。

它与虾饺、叉烧包、蛋挞并称四大天王，老广饮茶必点，一笼上桌，"好正"嘢！

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西关濑粉这东西，说起来有一百多年历史了。

旧年广州穷，饭都唔够食，街坊把隔夜饭晒干磨粉，撞成浆，用漏勺"濑"进滚水——穷日子逼出来的吃食。

西关原是水乡泽国，塘里种菱角，有个王姓婆婆用大米磨浆，筷子愣是"漱"出菱角模样，拌姜丝肉丝，配猪骨大地鱼上汤，叫水菱角。

后来这手艺上了《舌尖上的中国第二季》。

你讲，一碗粉，几代人的记忆都在里头了，几"廿"年风雨，边个讲得清呢。

做法讲究得很。

糙米粘米泡透磨浆，八十五度热水"撞"入开生熟浆，粉团按落去四周不裂、放手弹起才合格。

濑粉要在五分钟内搞掂，泡久断成截。

汤底猪骨熬米浆，稠得挂壁，搁猪油渣、虾米、冬菇、头菜，粉条粗短软糯，米香冲鼻。

食落去黏糊糊的，老广话"正啊"！

配萝卜干葱花一捞，清晨一碗落肚，踏实。呢种味道，而家越来越难揾了，真系"冇得弹"。

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广州人的早晨，唔系从一盅两件开始，系从一只糯米鸡开始。

这东西最早出现在解放前广州夜市，小贩拿碗盖着蒸，后来嫌麻烦改荷叶包，肩挑着卖。

民间还传，唐朝官员李时中就好这口；

更有说法扯到秦始皇修长城，岭南劳工荷叶裹饭夹菜带去工地，算糯米鸡的祖宗。

到20世纪30年代，茶楼把它请进早茶，80年代又出了个头小一半的“珍珠鸡”。

一只点心，装着几百年广州街巷的烟火气。

做法不复杂但讲究。

选晚造糯米泡透，荷叶铺底搁米，中间塞鸡肉、叉烧、冬菇、咸蛋黄，叠成枕头样捆扎实，大火蒸15分钟。

拆开那一刻荷香扑鼻，糯米润得黏牙，鸡肉鲜香全渗进米粒里，软糯回甘。

老广讲“好正啊”，一口下去，就是这座城最踏实的早晨味道嘛。

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广州人讲"食在广州，味在西关"，云吞面这东西，根子埋得深。

据宋代高怿《群居解颐》记载："岭南地暖……入冬好食馄饨，往往稍喧，食须用扇。"

唐宋时馄饨已入粤。清朝同治年间，一个湖南人在双门底（今北京路）开了间三楚面馆，鸡蛋液擀薄皮，肉末虾仁韭黄做馅，面与馄饨同煮，开了先河。

上世纪20年代，麦焕池在西关创立池记云吞，馅料加鲜虾，汤底添虾子、大地鱼粉，一下成了潮流。

老广州叫它"细蓉""大蓉"，"细蓉"就是九钱面、四粒云吞、一壳汤。

做法讲究"三讲"。

汤用大地鱼、猪骨、虾籽文火熬几个钟头，清鲜不加味精。

面是竹升面，鸭蛋和高筋粉不加一滴水，师傅骑竹竿反复压打，面条细如银丝，爽弹有嚼劲。

云吞三七肥瘦猪肉拌鲜虾，包成金鱼尾，皮薄馅足一口吞。

装碗规矩：韭黄垫底，云吞沉下，面覆上头。

先啜汤，再咬云吞，最后嗦面——"汤清面爽"，食过返寻味啊！

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说起广州早餐里的腌面，得往北追。

客家人几次大迁徙，从中原把面食习性带到岭南，梅州那边一直种冬小麦，产量不济才慢慢不种了，但这口腌面留下来了。

客家话里"腌"不是咸腌，是烫熟了拌料，清末民初就有记载，

民国初年梅城东门路冒出好几家档口，用竹杠压的"杠面"，后来福建人谢阿三带打面机设厂，机制面才遍地开花。

梅城腌面和大埔腌面两大流派，这玩意儿少说也有百来年光景了。

做法不复杂但讲究。

淡碱面沸水里翻滚30秒捞起过冷水，猪油爆蒜蓉到金黄，搁肉末、葱花、鱼露，趁热拌匀。

面弹牙筋道，蒜香冲鼻，猪油裹着每根面条。

再配碗三及第汤——猪肝瘦肉粉肠搭枸杞叶，哇，那叫"物落去"！

客家人讲，"食了腌面，捱得苦"，日子嘛，就系咁过嘅。

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蛋挞这东西，根子在欧洲。

1399年英国亨利四世加冕宴上就有了，那时糖金贵得很，只有贵族才吃得起。

后来传到葡萄牙，18世纪里斯本热罗尼莫斯修道院的修女拿鸡蛋糖香料琢磨出雏形。

几百年后20世纪20年代落地广州，1927年真光酒楼头一个端上桌，广州师傅把英式蛋挞改了。

用猪油替牛油起酥，

西式挞皮撞上中式炖蛋，就有了广式蛋挞。

你说这一路，几百年风雨，了不得。

做法不复杂但讲规矩。

挞皮猪油面粉一层层叠，酥得掉渣；蛋液鸡蛋牛奶糖过筛倒七分满，烤箱230度烤十来分钟。

出炉金黄，皮酥馅滑似布丁，咬一口渣簌簌掉，蛋香奶香嘴里打转，甜而不腻。

这是广式早茶“四大天王”里唯一甜口点心，

老广叹早茶一盅两件，蛋挞配茶，日子先有了滋味。

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肠粉这嘢，根子扎得深。

唐朝泷州（今广东罗定），有个叫惠积的僧人，在龙龛道场整出个"龙龛糍"，

米浆拌油盐花生碎，蒸出来嫩滑得很。

后来民间传是乾隆爷下江南尝了赐名"肠粉"，真假难说，但有味道。

到20世纪三四十年代，广州西关泮塘荷仙馆往里头加馅料，搞出"卷粉"，抗战年间从街边摊走进馆子。

1958年银记文昌北路开张，肠粉才算真正入了千家万户。

做法嘛，粘米粉兑澄面、玉米淀粉磨浆，布拉蒸成皮，薄到透光，裹牛肉虾仁鸡蛋，

淋香菇蒜头冰糖熬的豉油。

粉皮白如玉薄如纸，夹起不散，入口爽滑带韧，米香在嘴里化开。

广州三千多家肠粉店，日销五十万份，"食咗未？"

一碟肠粉一碗粥，老广的早晨就系咁简单。

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艇仔粥这碗嘢，根子扎在珠江上。

清朝那会儿，疍家人以艇为家，船尾架锅熬白粥，捞啥鱼搁啥料，

岸上人要吃便一碗碗递过去。

唐代《北户录》已记"岭南人取杂鱼作糜"，宋代《萍洲可谈》写"舟人于水面架釜，鱼粥随潮往来"。

南越国宫署遗址出土汉代陶釜有鱼骨淀粉残留，"南海一号"沉船碗壁检出鲮鱼、鳝骨及芫荽。

老广州人讲："食在广州，味在西关"，这话不虚。

相传疍家女金水放生鲤鱼，父病重，仙女指点煮鱼虾粥卖钱救父；又传西关落魄阔少买艇卖粥度日。如今卖粥艇早没影了，味道倒传下来了。

做法讲究，粳米泡一两小时，大火煮沸小火熬一个半到两小时，粥底绵滑如乳。

配料鱼片、叉烧、浮皮、海蜇、蛋丝、炸花生、薄脆、葱花，碗底铺好料，滚粥冲入烫熟，行内叫"一弯"。

传统以鱼片、浮皮、炸花生为"黄金三角"，鱼片嫩、花生脆、油条酥，粥底软滑鲜甜，一口落肚什么都有，爽脆软滑兼备。

老广讲："冇点真功夫，整唔出呢碗粥"，就系呢个理。

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我在这城里吃了五十年。

从西关大屋吃到天河高楼，从虾饺吃到干蒸烧卖，一口一口，嚼出一个理儿。

这地界，两千年前就懂吃。南越王的烤炉，炭痕还沾着乳猪的油。

朝代更迭，人换了一茬又一茬，灶火没灭过。

人活一世，图啥？

不图满汉全席，就图天没亮，茶楼里有只滚水烫好的茶盅等着你。

图深夜收工，街角还有镬气，一碟干炒牛河，焦边带响。

日子是一锅老火汤，慢熬。熬过三伏，熬过三九，霸王花都熬化了，蜜枣也熬没了脾气，喝到嘴里的，是回甘。

明早你也别睡懒觉。

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