鲜芡实是水塘里的嫩珠，圆润洁白，比干品更清鲜。山药去皮切段，排骨焯水。三样一同入锅，加姜片和清水，大火烧开转小火，慢煲一个多钟头。芡实在汤里变得粉糯，山药也绵软，汤色微白，稠而不浊，鲜香里带着一丝水生植物的清。撇去浮油，喝起来温润。

这锅汤，健脾止泻。芡实固涩，山药补中，排骨增鲜，三样都走脾胃。脾虚便溏、吃东西不香的人，喝它最稳妥。汤不腻，芡实一颗颗滑进嘴里，粉糯微弹，山药一抿即化。它不寒不燥，四季皆宜，老人孩子都能喝。

鲜芡实不易得，有则最好，无则用干品泡软亦可。山药选铁棍的，粉糯。排骨不必太肥。汤煲得稠些，才养人。秋冬夜里，一锅热汤端上桌，是给脾胃最实在的照应。

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