三伏天“扶阳”6道菜：天气炎热流汗多，把阳气补足，不比吃冰棍强多了吗|丸子|冰棍|冰棒|扶阳|猪骨汤|美味菜肴|肉末|蒜香|鱼片|鸡翅

大热天里，很多人一进空调屋就犯迷糊，饭也吃不香，浑身没劲儿。可有些山东家庭偏不信这个邪，夏天照样讲究吃得顺口、吃得实在，还得把身体底子顾上。像这份菜单，蒜香椒盐鸡翅、红薯米酒丸子、盐焗花螺、肉末烧土豆、蒜蓉粉丝黑鱼片，再来一锅莲藕玉米胡萝卜猪骨汤，摆到桌上，热气一冒，家里那点烟火气立马就回来了。

这套搭配的心思不浅，表面看是家常菜，里头讲的是夏季扶阳、温中开胃、补中益气、滋阴润燥这些路数。中医里常说，夏天阳气在外，脾胃容易受寒凉伤着，冰饮、冷菜、吹空调一多，人就容易胃口差、拉肚子、没精神。食补这事儿不玄乎，说白了就是别总拿冰棍和冷饮硬顶，得让饭菜有点温度，有点劲儿，有点落胃的感觉。

蒜香椒盐鸡翅放在第一道，挺有讲究。鸡翅本身肉香足，蒜香一出来，开胃就快。椒盐这种做法，盐香里带点胡椒的热劲儿，山东人看了都明白，这叫有滋有味，不寡淡。鸡肉在传统饮食里常被拿来做补养食材，蛋白质也实在，家里孩子、老人都能吃上几口。别看是炸或者煎出来的，关键是别把油放得太猛，外皮脆一点，里头还嫩着，配一碗米饭，真能把饭桌气氛拽起来。

第二道红薯米酒丸子，很多人一看就觉得新鲜。红薯自带甜味，口感软和，吃进嘴里不费劲，老少都合适。米酒这东西，在北方也不算稀罕，尤其是家里有老人，常常会说少量米酒能让饭菜更香，身体也更舒坦。民间饮食里，红薯常被看作补中益气的粗粮代表，米酒带一点温润的劲儿，合在一起，就不是单纯的甜口，而是有点暖胃的意思。夏天很多人只顾着吃凉的，这道丸子一上桌，等于给胃里添了点热乎气。

第三道盐焗花螺，属于那种看着不起眼，入口却很有味道的菜。花螺肉质紧实，带着海鲜的鲜劲儿，盐焗以后，味道更集中。老一辈山东人喜欢说，海里的东西，鲜得实在，吃着不腻。花螺在夏天上桌，既有海货的鲜，也不至于像大鱼大肉那样压人。资料里提到它有补肾壮阳、滋阴润燥的说法，这类食材在传统饮食里常被归到夏日调养那一类。其实说到底，就是让人吃得舒服，别一吃就上火，别一吃就腻得慌。

第四道肉末烧土豆，算是家里最稳当的下饭菜。土豆这东西，真是厨房里的老实人，蒸着吃、炒着吃、炖着吃都行。它的口感绵，吸味儿，和肉末一搭，香气立刻扎实起来。对家里有两个十岁左右男孩的人来说，这道菜尤其省心，孩子通常都爱扒拉两口。土豆提供碳水，肉末补充蛋白质和脂肪，放在一起就是一盘顶饱的能量菜。夏天人容易没胃口，可一盘热乎乎的肉末烧土豆端上桌，米饭能干掉两碗，这可不是吹。

第五道蒜蓉粉丝黑鱼片，明显是照顾到营养和口感两头。黑鱼在民间常被叫作补虚的好食材，肉质细，刺少，蛋白质高，脂肪又不算多，特别适合夏天吃。粉丝吸了蒜蓉的香气，再裹上鱼片的鲜味，一口下去，嘴里是软的，肚里是踏实的。蒜蓉这东西，别小看，夏天多蒜，很多人图的就是它那股开胃劲儿。北方家庭做鱼，最怕腥气压不住，这道菜用蒜香顶上去，味道就立住了。

第六道莲藕玉米胡萝卜猪骨汤，摆在最后，像给整顿饭收个稳稳的尾。汤这东西，在山东家庭里地位不低，尤其是有老人孩子同住的家里，几乎隔三差五就得炖一锅。莲藕带点脆，玉米甜，胡萝卜清口，猪骨负责出味儿，几样东西一锅炖，汤色自然，喝着也顺。传统里常把莲藕、玉米这类食材和滋阴润燥联系起来，猪骨汤则有扶阳固本的说法。夏天人虽然怕热，可空调、冷饮、熬夜一折腾，身体也容易虚，喝点热汤，反倒更稳当。

这份菜谱最有意思的地方，不是某一道菜多神，而是整体搭配有章法。先用鸡翅、蒜蓉鱼片把胃口打开，再用土豆肉末、花螺把鲜味和饱腹感顶上去，最后拿一锅汤把身体兜住。热菜、主食、汤水都安排到了，饭桌上不容易出现一个人只吃凉菜、另一个人只喝饮料的散乱局面。家里有老人小孩的都懂，这种安排最省心，也最像过日子。

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