今年的重阳,我最想做的一件事其实不是什么登高望远,也不是专门去看菊花。说得直白点,就是想让家里那口锅,从早上热到晚上。尤其是我家这种“孩子一到饭点就饿得像小闹钟”的家庭,热乎的面食一端上桌,团圆感就会自己冒出来。
我小时候在长沙周边的农村长大,重阳这天大人们嘴上说着秋天收成的事,手上却忙着准备祭祖、准备吃的。那会儿家里条件不算好,但凡能吃得热乎、吃得丰盛,就会被当成福气。后来我在长沙工作成家,才发现时间越往后走,人反而越需要“仪式感”。比如重阳包一顿饺子,这种事听起来朴素,却特别牢靠。
北方不少地方重阳有吃饺子的习惯,我一开始挺不理解的,后来跟着邻居学做,才发现一个道理:秋末最怕胃不舒服。外头风一吹,里面就想要点热乎的东西把你“托住”。饺子皮薄但顶饱,热量上来得快,真就是冬天到来前的一次温柔预热。
还有一句老话我特别记得:三馅不上桌,福气不进门。听着像迷信,但我当成“家常建议”来用就挺顺。意思大概是,馅料别乱凑,选当季的食材,味道更鲜,寓意也更顺。毕竟吃进嘴里的东西,才是最真实的。
今年重阳,我给全家准备了三款应季馅,做出来基本就是:老人爱吃,孩子也能啃得下去,我自己也吃得心里踏实。
先说第一款。
马蹄鲜肉馅
我特别爱这款,因为它吃起来有一种“脆”的存在感。深秋的马蹄真的很会讨好人,它不像夏天那种清淡,它是爽脆、汁水足,咬下去会有点清亮的感觉。用来拌猪肉馅特别绝,肥瘦搭配好了,不会觉得腻,反而像给油脂加了一点“刹车”。
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具体做法我一般是这样:
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https://github.com/andersonjoseph950/sucwog/blob/main/bah%7D_72710.md
https://github.com/clarkamy635/rtimyw/blob/main/hhl%7D_47983.md
https://github.com/owensdavid893/xfglmm/blob/main/shc%7D_10885.md
https://github.com/hendersonkatherine531/upqjip/blob/main/rwa%7D_13737.md
https://github.com/andersonjoseph950/sucwog/blob/main/rjj%7D_51726.md
https://github.com/fordmonica542/hshvjj/blob/main/stb%7D_85573.md
https://github.com/clarkamy635/rtimyw/blob/main/ath%7D_39479.md
https://github.com/owensdavid893/xfglmm/blob/main/vpq%7D_73641.md
https://github.com/hendersonkatherine531/upqjip/blob/main/woi%7D_28564.md
https://github.com/andersonjoseph950/sucwog/blob/main/rjj%7D_29823.md
https://github.com/fordmonica542/hshvjj/blob/main/syj%7D_09742.md
https://github.com/clarkamy635/rtimyw/blob/main/udr%7D_43779.md
https://github.com/owensdavid893/xfglmm/blob/main/atm%7D_40764.md
https://github.com/hendersonkatherine531/upqjip/blob/main/uku%7D_23166.md
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https://github.com/fordmonica542/hshvjj/blob/main/sgs%7D_12923.md
https://github.com/clarkamy635/rtimyw/blob/main/vvu%7D_66623.md
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https://github.com/hendersonkatherine531/upqjip/blob/main/wnr%7D_95933.md
https://github.com/fordmonica542/hshvjj/blob/main/wge%7D_69165.md
https://github.com/clarkamy635/rtimyw/blob/main/phm%7D_59065.md
https://github.com/andersonjoseph950/sucwog/blob/main/tmw%7D_69199.md
https://github.com/owensdavid893/xfglmm/blob/main/jhz%7D_01759.md
https://github.com/hendersonkatherine531/upqjip/blob/main/qwt%7D_39210.md马蹄洗净去皮,切小颗粒,尽量别切太碎,不然口感会散;猪肉绞碎后加生抽、花雕酒、蚝油、葱姜末,淋一小勺热油激香,再把马蹄碎拌进去就行。包的时候我会捏紧一点,马蹄这东西容易出水,捏牢些味道更完整。
我家小朋友第一次吃的时候还问我:“这个是不是有点像荸荠?”我笑死,因为他一猜就对。马蹄和“顺遂好运”这类说法放在一起,就特别像过节的暗号。你不一定信得多深,但吃到嘴里那口清爽,是真的顺。
第二款是韭菜鸡蛋虾仁馅。
入秋以后很多东西都开始收着来,反而韭菜越到后面越香。大家都说九月九,佛开口,这句我不拿来做玄学,我拿来当“吃韭菜的提醒”。韭菜的香气,属于那种你还没下筷子就已经闻到的香。至于“久财绵长”的寓意,我就更当成一种家里人互相打气的话。
做法上关键就一个字:水。
韭菜切之前一定要彻底沥干,不要让它带着水分进馅。鸡蛋我习惯先炒熟,放凉再弄碎;鲜虾剥壳切大粒,别切成碎沫,口感才会立得住。全部拌一起,盐少一点,尤其是我这种“怕咸了老人吃不舒服”的人会更谨慎。临包再拌是我自己的小习惯,馅不容易出水,包出来皮也更好看。
这个馅我每次做,家里都有一个小分歧:
我老公说它香得“像过日子有点盼头”,我婆婆说它“口感干净”。至于孩子,基本只认虾仁的颗粒感。你看,大家嘴上评价不一样,但最后都会把碗舔干净。也挺好。
第三款我给做的是菠菜素馅。
菠菜素馅
说实话,我以前对素馅没有那么热情,觉得“没味道”。直到有一次我用秋菠菜做了饺子,才明白自己错得有点离谱。秋菠菜吃起来鲜嫩肥厚,不像夏天那样带点苦意,反而更温和。做素馅的时候,关键是把香气和鲜味凑齐,别只靠盐。
我这款会准备木耳、菠菜、胡萝卜,再加一点鸡蛋碎。
木耳提前泡发,焯过的菠菜挤干切碎,胡萝卜切小丁。鸡蛋炒碎,混合到一起,调味就用盐和香油,拌匀就可以了。
它我特别推荐煎焖。
先把饺子锅底煎到微黄,再倒入半锅热水,焖十分钟左右。外皮焦香,里面软嫩,老人和孩子都不挑。尤其是我家孩子有时候不太爱“纯素”,但这款他会先夹一只再说好不好吃,等反应过来碟子就空了。
你会发现,我这三款馅都有一个共同点:食材都顺着深秋来,口感不单一,味道也不靠重调料硬顶。你要是问我为什么重阳要这么折腾?我大概会说,因为我想把平安喜乐包得更具体一点,别只停留在口头祝福。
顺便说一句,关于那些吉祥寓意的说法,别当成医疗,更别当成能替你解决现实问题。我们就把它当成一种习俗的温度,图个心安。食谱还是要按你家口味来,馅咸一点、虾仁少点、马蹄多切一点都行,关键是家人吃得开心。
今年要二胎的事,我和老公偶尔也会聊到。嘴上说是计划,心里其实是那种慢慢变满的期待。孩子越大,我们越发现家庭这件事,靠的不是轰轰烈烈,而是你愿不愿意在日常里多照顾一点彼此。重阳包一顿饺子,看起来只是做饭,可它更像一种“我们还在一起”的证明。
等下你要是也打算重阳吃饺子,你家会选哪一种馅?是想走鲜肉马蹄的清爽,还是韭菜虾仁的香,或者来一碗菠菜的温柔?评论区聊聊,我也想看看你们那边重阳的味道到底是什么。
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