2026亚洲50佳餐厅背后的大实话|she|中餐|亚洲|厨师|大实话|廉价美食|粤菜|餐饮

[ Asia's 50 Best Restaurants]

亚洲50佳

今年亚洲50佳评选告一段落，

但这只是逗号。

作为一直关注中国餐饮成长的媒体人，

我希望给大家传递成功者的经̸验̸大实话。

也许明年咱也上了呢？

榜单速览：“守旧”餐饮占优势

这次，众望所归，香港THE CHAIRMAN“大班楼”荣登2026年度ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS“亚洲50最佳餐厅”NO.1宝座。

老板Danny笑说自己的团队是Vintage（复古）的。官方是这样评价这支团队的：“这家备受赞誉的餐厅致力于致敬几近失传的华南珍贵食材与粤菜传统，从去年的No.2攀升至榜首，继2021年后再度登顶亚洲最佳餐厅。”

本年度第1-50名榜单覆盖17个城市，8家餐厅新晋上榜，彰显亚洲餐饮界的卓越成就。

香港在本年度榜单上表现卓越，除The Chairman“大班楼”重新登顶外，Wing“永”位列No.2，餐厅主厨兼店主郑永麒(Vicky Cheng)以精湛法式厨艺，对中国八大菜系进行创新演绎。

The Best Restaurant in Macau“澳门最佳餐厅”殊荣由位于永利皇宫的Chef Tam's Seasons“谭卉”(No.7)夺得，这家谭国锋师傅掌厨的餐厅以精致粤菜闻名，排名较去年更进一步。

今年也是中国内地餐厅上榜数量最多的一次，共有7家进入前50，其中3家跻身前10，再次刷新纪录。分别是遇外滩（上海）第6位，Ling Long （上海）第9位，如院（杭州）第10位。加上港澳，前10名榜单中中国餐厅占据6席，我很惊喜看到那么多中国优秀餐厅能够站在亚洲餐饮前列。

上海以5家上榜餐厅领跑中国内地，杭州也跻身主榜单。Meet the Bund“遇外滩”延续上升势头，从去年的No.14跃升至No.6，再次蝉联“中国内地最佳餐厅”。现代中餐厅Ling Long“凌珑”(No.9)于本年度榜单上保持强势地位。传统广府筵席菜102 House“壹零贰小馆”(No.29)与去年度排名不变。巴斯克海鲜烧烤餐厅La Bourriche 133(No.48)则首次入围（他们以本土海鲜为主要食材）。

值得回顾的是：2026亚洲50最佳餐厅中国内地餐厅在第51-100位版图也扩大了。

2026 Asia's 50 Best Restaurants第51-100名的榜单中，中国餐厅共有13家上榜，占比超过1/4。其中包括中国内地6家（北京2家、深圳2家、杭州1家、成都1家），中国香港4家，中国澳门1家，中国台湾2家。
誉珑轩（澳门，No.80）、金沙厅（杭州，No.85）、 Amber（香港，No.90）等老牌名店重新回归榜单。
1996 川菜·主厨餐厅（北京，No.52）、晶华轩（台北，No.64）、Fumée拂鸣（深圳，No.65）、蔻Co-（成都，No.69）新入选。今年北京、深圳、成都均有新餐厅首次上榜，其中成都首次有餐厅登榜。
Ensue（深圳）由去年的No.85升至No.54，上升31位。

值得一提的是：新荣记创办人张勇荣膺获标志人物大奖，陈碧琪（Zero Foodprint Asia 零碳足食执行董事）荣获变革奖。北京的兰斋飙升33位到第17，荣获最佳进步奖。福和慧位列第11，目前是中国第一素食。

我发现有一个趋势，越是强调在地传统根基的餐饮，越有全球表现力！

另外，还有香港的Neighborhood（第24位）、Estro （第32位）、Caprice（第35位）、Mono （第46位），中国台湾的Logy （第22位）、JL Studio （第50位）。同时，我特别认同Neighborhood老板David的个人观点，年轻餐饮人应该找到自己的风格，而不是盲目“借鉴”。

Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2026年度榜单曼谷以 9 家入选餐厅领跑，东京以7 家餐厅上榜紧随其后。

去年的冠军得主Gaggan今年位居第3，仍然是“泰国最佳餐厅”，主厨 Gaggan Anand与LV品牌合作的Gaggan at Louis Vuitton也排名第8。Chef Ton的Nusara（第5位）和Le Du（第36位）双双上榜，他本人则荣获由同行票选的“厨师之选奖”。

东京上榜的7 家餐厅中，排名最高的是大坂La Cime（第13位），而东京的Sézanne和Sazenka“茶禅华”分别位列第16和21位。

韩国餐饮的流行风潮越来越显现，Mingles（第4位）再度荣获“韩国最佳餐厅”，Mosu以41位重返榜单，老牌精致餐饮依然有魅力。今年亚洲50佳榜单加入了更多国家的强劲力量，我们看到亚洲美味的舞台越来越大。

孟买Masque(No.15)由Aditi Dugar创立，为现代印度美食先驱，第四度获评为The Best Restaurant in India“印度最佳餐厅”，同时获颁Art of Hospitality Award“待客艺术奖”，以表彰其卓越待客体验。位于昌迪加尔与西姆拉之间偏远山麓的卡绍利，凭借Naar(No.30)首次亮相第1-50名榜单，主厨Prateek Sadhu致力呈现其对喜马拉雅饮食文化的热爱。

槟城首次有餐厅入围第1-50名榜单，Au Jardin(No.39)由主厨兼店主史金福(Kim Hock Su)主理，将法式元素注入马来西亚精致菜肴之中，获评为The Best Restaurant in Malaysia“马来西亚最佳餐厅”。

50Best“50最佳”活动董事总经理Rikki Tidball表示：“本年度榜单汇集了来自17个亚洲城市广受欢迎的餐厅。我们衷心祝贺所有上榜餐厅，尤其是荣登2026年度亚洲50最佳餐厅No.1宝座的The Chairman大班楼。该餐厅致力于传承精致粤菜传统，坚持以食材为本，因而脱颖而出。榜单上所有餐厅对卓越厨艺的追求及对美食边界的突破，充分展现了亚洲餐饮界的蓬勃发展，以及非凡人才与创新精神。”

我跟大班楼Danny探讨的问题，其实是想替国内一直在坚守“传统”的餐厅去问的。新时代的洪流里，其实有很多传统餐饮都开始不同程度转型，有些是“舍弃”了，有些是“融合”了，有些是“美化”了。大班楼代表中国传统的力量走向世界，其实是很鼓舞的一件事。

从另一个角度，我想说香港的“传统”早已被国际化进程塑造成一种可被全球市场识别的“标志性资产”，这和内地多数传统餐厅所处的生态截然不同。香港自开埠以来就是中西文化的交汇点，传统粤菜在殖民时期就开始与西方饮食体系互动，形成了既有岭南根基又具国际表达的独特形态。这种“传统”不是封闭的老手艺，而是经过市场筛选、语言转译和审美校准的文化符号，天然具备跨文化传播的基因。

时间有限，于是现场我没有再追问，但线下我需要再问下去。

“会见主厨”媒体圆桌会：可持续是谎言？年轻人太喜欢“抄”？娱乐化可以使“客户更耐烦”？…

Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 亚洲50最佳餐厅里面，我最喜欢的环节其实是和有态度的主厨们聊天，主办方称作“快速约会”。我聆听他们的故事，可以面对面聊一些平时埋头吃饭得不到的“干货”。

• 黎子安（David Lai），Neighborhood——香港

黎子安（David Lai）是一位在香港出生、在美国成长的厨师，最为人熟知的身份是Neighborhood的创始人，这家备受喜爱的小酒馆隐居于荷里活道旁。他在北加州开始了他的烹饪生涯，在Masa's和The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco等知名机构磨练，之后返回香港与Alain Ducasse合作开设了Spoon餐厅。

他的烹饪哲学侧重于简单、时令，让优质食材本身说话。在2014年开设Neighborhood之前，Lai曾领导过香港几家备受赞誉的餐厅，包括On Lot 10、Kushiyaki Beco、Bistronomique和Fish School。

David以其低调的风格和考究的风味而闻名，已成为香港最受尊敬的厨师兼餐饮主理人之一，深受食客和业内人士的赞赏。

我很喜欢David的率性。刚刚上桌，他经不住说：“We are back to normal like pre-COVID level. So I'm very happy about that.”

“一切都恢复到了疫情前的正常情况，我对此感到非常开心。”

Q：很多年轻的厨师，他们在创作自己的现代料理的时候，会挖掘越来越多的传统文化，对此您怎么看？

So I think now the thing is too much information on the internet, and the food is the same in London, Copenhagen, New York, Tokyo and Paris. It's because I think especially for young chefs, they get too much information and feel a bit confusing. I think the goal of a chef is to develop their own personality and voice, like a good writer, like Hemingway, he can use the least amount of work to convey very great and clear ideas, like emotions and thoughts. So I think young chefs get carried away by trends because it's so easy to see everyone make a flower on the plate like Noma, and so I don’t think it’s helpful.

我觉得现在的问题是网络上的信息太多了，伦敦、哥本哈根、纽约、东京、巴黎的餐饮风格都变得趋同。尤其是年轻厨师，接触的信息过多，难免会感到困惑。我认为厨师的核心目标，是塑造属于自己的个人风格和表达内核，就像海明威这样优秀的作家，能用最凝练的方式，传递出深刻又清晰的思想，比如情感与观点。年轻厨师很容易被潮流裹挟，毕竟随处可见大家都像Noma餐厅那样，在盘子里做花艺装饰，我觉得这样的做法并无益处。

As a chef, I probably stopped looking at other people's cookbooks 10 years ago. Before opening my first restaurant, I told people it’s a French bistro, but when you put a label on it, you are forced to fit in a box. Like if it's a French bistro, I have to stick to it and make something that fits. But if I want to make a paella, people would say that's a Spanish dish and it does not fit in a French restaurant.

作为一名厨师，我大概十年前就不再看别人的烹饪书籍了。开第一家餐厅前，我跟别人说这是一家法式小馆，但一旦给餐厅贴上标签，就会被局限在固定的框架里。比如法式小馆，就必须恪守法式风格，做符合定位的菜品。可如果我想做个海鲜饭，别人就会说这是西班牙菜，不该出现在法式餐厅里。

So now I stopped trying to put a label. I just do what I want. I do what I feel like. I go to the market in the morning, I buy ingredients that excite me, and with that excitement, I hope when I cook them, I have more energy, and for customers, they can feel the excitement. I think when they get the emotion I put in, it's my expression to my customers.

所以现在我不再刻意给自己的烹饪贴标签，只做自己想做的、自己喜欢的菜。我每天早上去市集，挑选那些能让我心生欢喜的食材，带着这份热情烹饪。我希望自己做菜时能充满活力，也希望食客们能感受到这份心意。我觉得当他们体会到我融入菜品里的情感时，这就是我向食客们的表达。

So I feel like at the end of the day, people remember a meal because they experience emotion. So the highest compliment my customers give me is that when they eat my food, they feel like they know my personality. And for me, I have done my job properly if people eat my food and know me.So I think we have so many techniques and different styles. They are only tools for communication. At the end of the day, it's people feeling the emotion.

我觉得说到底，人们之所以会记住一顿饭，是因为在享用时感受到了独特的情感。食客能给我的最高赞美，就是说吃到我的菜时，仿佛读懂了我的性格。对我而言，只要人们品尝我的菜品，就能了解我，我的工作就做到位了。如今我们有各式各样的烹饪技法和风格，但这些都只是表达的工具。说到底，烹饪的核心终究是让人们感受到那份真挚的情感。

Q：Do you have any suggestions for young chefs?

你对年轻厨师有什么建议吗？

Travel more. Food is about culture. So when you travel around, it's the easiest way for you to have firsthand experience. When you just go on the internet, it's all secondhand experience, but when you travel, it's firsthand feeling. For example, in Hong Kong, I can see how chefs use carrots; when I go to Japan, I see how Japanese people use a carrot; when I go to Europe, I see the same ingredient but with a completely different mentality. So when you see how different people think, you learn how to think.

多去旅行。美食与文化息息相关，旅行是获得第一手体验最直接的方式。上网看到的都是二手信息，而旅行能让你亲身感受。比如在香港，我看到当地厨师如何使用胡萝卜；到了日本，见识到日本人对胡萝卜的处理方式；到了欧洲，又能看到人们用完全不同的思路对待同一种食材。当你见识到不同的思维方式，才能慢慢形成属于自己的思考方式。

Q：You mentioned travel, is there a dish you will miss when you are away from Hong Kong for a while？

你提到了旅行，当你离开香港一段时间，会想念哪道菜？

Maybe like wonton noodle.

或许是云吞面吧。

Q：So what do you think is the one core spirit of neighborhoods that can never be replaced？

你认为社区餐厅最不可替代的核心精神是什么？

Me.

是我。

Q：So then have you mainly stayed true to your original vision, or has Hong Kong maybe reshaped the restaurant？

那你是否一直坚守着最初的经营理念，还是香港这座城市重新塑造了这家餐厅？

I think that's a dumb question because I don't think you can escape the influence of living in some place. You are yourself, but do you change? So I think you are always changing. Today you, tomorrow you, are a different person. Yesterday you were a different person. So every day I'm a new person, and that is the most important thing. Be honest about who you are today. Being in tune with your feelings every day is the most important way of living. Honestly. It doesn't matter if you're a writer, it doesn't matter if you're cooking, it doesn't matter. It's easy to tell the difference. I can see how I was different 5 years ago from today. It's easy to say, right? But how were you different yesterday and today? There are differences, and being able to tell the difference is important as a chef. Cooking is mostly about the moment, being inspired, and when working with these ingredients, it's to do it with transparency.

我觉得这个问题没什么意义，因为人生活在某个地方，就无法摆脱这个地方的影响。你本就是你，但人难道不会改变吗？我认为人始终都在变化，今天的你、明天的你，都和昨天的你不同。每一天的我都是一个全新的自己，这一点至关重要。要坦诚地面对当下的自己，时刻倾听内心的感受，这才是最重要的生活方式，真的。无论你是作家、厨师，还是其他人，皆是如此。人是会变的，这一点很容易看出来。我们能轻易说出自己五年前和现在的不同，对吧？但你能说清自己昨天和今天的变化吗？这些细微的变化真实存在，而作为厨师，能感知到这些变化至关重要。烹饪大多关乎当下的心境，被灵感驱动，而与食材相处的过程，更要带着纯粹的本心去做。

Q：How to understand the word transparency?

该如何理解“纯粹”这个词？

如果你写东西你写的好好的，就不用浪费一些废话，就很清楚的写出来，用你自己的方式表达你自己的性格，表达你的思想，写东西去掉形容词。

Q：您刚才提到您每天早上都会去市场上去找食材，您最近有没有找到一些让你觉得非常满意的？

I don't think one day's ingredient is necessarily better than another's.

我觉得其实每一天的食材，并没有绝对的好坏之分。

Q：我很喜欢你的菜，但是我有一个问题我想问说Neighborhood从开始开到现在，你觉得最骄傲的事情是什么？然后你最后悔的事情是什么？

I have become more myself, and the food has become more transparent.

我活成了更真实的自己，做的菜也变得更纯粹。

没有后悔的事情。你会发现有些人学习比较快，有些人学习比较慢，比如说有些很年轻的厨师是天才，比如说我朋友他就是很年轻，就很清楚自己的思考和性格。能在那么年轻的时候就那么成熟，了解自己的内心，关键在于一个人成不成熟。你成熟了，才有自我。

Q：In your opinion, what makes Hong Kong F&B markets stand out and what kind of challenges does the Hong Kong F&B market face?

在你看来，香港的餐饮市场有哪些亮点，又面临着怎样的挑战？

我觉得这就是香港成本太高了，很多内地的人来香港的时候，会疑惑为什么在大陆吃的东西，环境更好，服务更好，价格却要便宜一半。还有现在在内地的食材其实已经很发达了，因为物流基本上是全国最好的，云南、东北哪里的最好的材料马上就可以送达。到香港还要过关，过深圳关，其实我们的食材比内地少很多，但是我们的好处就是外来的食材，比如说欧洲、澳大利亚、日本各地的都有很多。我觉得香港的成本很高，那些小生意受影响，因为独立的生意才有一些新的思想，我觉得有点可惜的。而且现在年轻人全部都读大学了，没有人亲自来帮忙做事情，那也是可惜的。所以现在香港其实很多老店，经营者基本上都差不多到了退休的年纪，如果退休了，很多像伦敦或者本地的茶餐厅，基本上退休了就没有人做了，所以我觉得其实全世界也是一个圈子。全世界也在转，香港还挺有活力的，但是成本贵就竞争力没有那么高。像新加坡签疫情以前其实因为它的地是比较便宜的，所以竞争力比较高，但是现在全部都贵了，他们很明显这几年的餐饮活力都没有了。

因为我的性格是非常内向的，也不懂说话，所以我也奇怪，我也真的不了解看上了我什么。

• 林恬耀（Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw），JL Studio——台中

林恬耀（Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw）是新加坡籍厨师，在台中开设了JL Studio，并在那里展示了对新加坡风味的现代、极具个人色彩的诠释。林恬耀在新加坡长大，他的烹饪根基很早就通过家里经营的街头小吃摊得以塑造。

在全球知名厨房接受训练后，他移居台中，在那里他发展出了一种将东南亚传统与本土食材及现代技术相结合的烹饪风格。2017年，他创立了JL Studio，这家餐厅通过精致、富有想象力的视角，重新构想了如laksa（叻沙）、bak kut teh（肉骨茶）和Hainanese chicken rice（海南鸡饭）等经典菜肴。餐厅约90%的农产品来自本地采购，这反映了林恬耀在尊重传统风味的同时，将美食与当地环境联系起来的信念。

如今，林恬耀主厨被公认为在国际上塑造现代新加坡美食的领军人物，他将JL Studio作为颂扬记忆、风土和美食叙事的平台。

当他被问到世界餐饮炙手可热的“发酵”，他是如何看待的。他回答：“我觉得更重要的应该是创作者的整个team，整个团队的philosophy在做的所谓的发酵，我会把它看成是用时间，去怎么养成我们越来越清晰的一个理念出来。”

Q：刚刚您提到你们更喜欢用当季的食材，那怎么在这个时间的存留，我们提到的发酵，你们这边的理念应该是思维上手法上的累积跟陈化，而不是食材上的？

因为我有时候觉得如果你只食材或菜的方向，它有一点表面，因为几乎现在社交媒体，30年前我觉得他们是很幸福，他们要学什么东西，其实只要懂得去找哪一个媒体，他们都可以讲一下。

Q：我问一个问题，问一些反面的，你在台湾做到现代料理的创新和经典的传承，这之间你碰到了什么问题？比如说有什么分寸的问题，或者是它的水土可能更喜欢传统的问题，有没有年轻人不肯买单的问题？

这个问题的话我觉得比较深刻的是我刚创建的时候，我一直很想要做道地的味道，新加坡人口味，可是在当地的客人没办法接受。所以那时候我就一直在想说我要怎么办。如果我在做的事情，我不能get message across，那我是失败的，我一直在想说我要怎么样去让他们能够理解。所以那时候才会做了调整，把味道上做了调整了，让道地的味道这个东西要往后再来，所以要让客人先理解我们要传达或要做的事情。所以我记得两三年后我才开始慢慢把味道做出来。

这是比较深刻的我遇到的challenge。我觉得不是一种妥协，因为我要先让你理解，就是我有一个basement，我不能低于我的底线，那它可以退到哪里。可是我的这个退，其实如果你不退的话，你根本没办法往前走，因为如果你一直坚持做着我要的东西，可是大家都不明白，其实这complication是被挡住的。那如果我退一步呢，我觉得我退了那一步，我其实再往前走了两三步。几年后我再看我这个动作的时候，它其实是让我往前的一个动作，所以未必退一步是不好的。

Q：前几年大家对于台湾的fine dining的现象，因为有很多的local ingredients然后用了太多，但是年轻的主厨他们又还hold不住，就搞得有点不像，然后全部都说台湾味。然后这几年就觉得是有进步了。

如果你要说进步的话，我觉得是在回国的年轻人，他们有出去过去，去别的国家，然后他们回来后带来的新的想法，因为我觉得愚昧的一直在讲当地化，在讲farm to table这个东西，会变成很多人在盲从这个标题，或者有一阵子是sustainability，大家都一直在做这个东西，真正的核心的sustainability真的有做到吗？还是只是在做表面？这个是我们也很想要探讨要看的核心问题是什么，而不是只做字面上表面的事情。

如果你说真的你在一个城市里面，你要说sustainable我觉得有限，真的是很有限。不可能不用plastic对不对，食材送过来，他们厂商不用这些东西装吗？这是我一直在探讨的问题，甚至我们也在有去沟通过，说能不能用少一点plastic，或者我们可以用一些不同的材质的东西送来，或一直这样重复利用…但大部分的是麻烦。所以我在看的话，我就觉得说有时候这sustainability真的有到核心里面去吗？！

• Chudaree 'Tam' Debhakam 与 Pantila 'Toey' Debhakam，Baan Tepa——曼谷

厨师Chudaree 'Tam' Debhakam与Pantila 'Toey' Debhakam是曼谷Baan Tepa背后的姐妹搭档，这是一个植根于泰国传统、本地食材和可持续食品体系的创新烹饪空间。Tam厨师最初在英国诺丁汉大学学习食品科学与营养，随后在纽约接受烹饪培训，并在Blue Hill at Stone Barns获得了宝贵的经验，深化了她对农场驱动型美食的热情。之后她返回泰国，于2020年开设了Baan Tepa，旨在通过再生农业的视角重新构想泰国风味。

她的姐姐Pantila 'Toey' Debhakam是Baan Tepa的联合创始人，并在将她们祖母的三代传承的曼谷住宅改造成一个城市烹饪综合体中发挥了核心作用。如今，这个院落包括Tepa厨房、Tepa花园以及修复后的祖宅，这些空间旨在让客人接触泰国食材、了解文化故事，并感受孕育了这种美食的土地。

Tam和Toey共同领导着Baan Tepa，使其成为一个泰国风土、创造力和可持续性融合在一起的目的地，体现了她们家族传承的深刻个人表达。

Q: What are your new projects at Baan Tepa?

Baan Tepa目前有哪些新项目？

We are currently renovating a small space at the back of the property to create a waste management centre. When it is completed, people will be able to visit and take classes to learn how to eliminate food waste and how to manage it properly at home. We want to teach people how to upcycle food scraps for their gardens or farms and show that waste can become something valuable.

我们正在翻新餐厅后院的一处小空间，打造厨余处理中心。建成后，民众可前来参观、参与课程，学习如何减少厨余、在家合理处理厨余垃圾。我们希望教会大家如何将厨余废料再利用，用于自家花园或农场，让垃圾变废为宝。

Q: What is your backup plan during inclement weather?

恶劣天气下有备选方案吗？

We collaborate with multiple producers who grow similar products in different areas. This allows us to adapt depending on harvest conditions. Our menu must remain flexible — we cannot serve a fixed menu or repeat the exact same dishes. Flexibility allows us to stay sustainable and continue supporting our producers throughout the year.

我们与分布在不同地区、种植同类食材的多位农户合作，可根据收成情况灵活调整。菜单必须保持弹性，无法采用固定菜单，也不会重复完全相同的菜品。这种灵活性既能践行可持续理念，也能全年持续扶持合作农户。

Q: How do you showcase Thai culture while remaining sustainable?

如何在践行可持续的同时展现泰国文化？

We use traditional Thai techniques such as pickling vegetables and making curry pastes, but we reinterpret them through different methods. For example, our Blackened Curry applies a long fermentation process similar in spirit to mole, but rooted in Thai ingredients. We take what we learn from tradition and apply our own craft.

我们沿用腌菜、制作咖喱酱等泰国传统技法，再用全新方式重新诠释。比如招牌黑咖喱，采用长时间发酵工艺，理念近似墨西哥莫雷酱，却以泰国本土食材为根基。我们从传统中汲取养分，再融入自身的烹饪技艺。

Q: Can you tell us more about the waste management centre?

能详细介绍一下厨余处理中心吗？

We have invested both time and money into learning how to use machines to break down food waste more efficiently. Previously, everything was done by hand. Now, machines help process difficult waste like shells, making composting more manageable. With the help of effective microbes, the waste breaks down into compost and becomes topsoil in about six months. This project is not just about sustainability — it is about understanding what we can do better as a restaurant.

我们投入了大量时间与资金，学习用设备更高效地分解厨余。此前全靠人工操作，如今设备可处理贝壳这类难处理的废料，让堆肥更易实施。借助有效微生物，厨余会分解为堆肥，约六个月后转化为表土。这个项目不止关乎可持续发展，更是探索作为餐厅，我们如何做得更好。

Q: As two women leading a restaurant, do you find the industry restrictive?

作为两位执掌餐厅的女性，是否觉得行业存在束缚？

Professional kitchens have traditionally been male-dominated, and that can create power imbalances. However, we see change happening. There is a new generation coming in, and more female chefs are emerging. Through collaborations, we see stronger female representation, and we hope the future will continue to improve.

专业厨房向来由男性主导，容易形成权力失衡。不过我们能看到行业正在改变：新一代从业者崛起，越来越多女性主厨崭露头角。通过各类合作，女性身影愈发亮眼，我们期待未来行业环境持续向好。

• Hussain Shahzad、Aksha Nair 与 Sameer Seth，Papa's——孟买

Papa's是位于孟买班德拉的一家仅有12个座位的私密Chef's Counter（主厨餐桌）式餐厅，由Hunger Inc. Hospitality团队创建。由行政总厨Hussain Shahzad、客户关系主管Aksha Nair以及创始人兼首席执行官Sameer Seth领导，该餐厅以其充满趣味、注重风味的印度菜以及温暖、充满个性的用餐体验而闻名。

Hussain Shahzad：This is a 50-year-old bakery, and we only offer services four nights a week for 12 people at a time. This gives us the freedom to be uncompromising with our culinary experience. We all grew up working in fine dining restaurants across the world—we’ve worked in New York, for instance. I worked in New York, and we’ve had a wide range of experiences: he’s worked with Danny Meyer, Danny Blue, and at other renowned spots, and I’ve honed my skills at restaurants like 11 Madison Park. We draw on all these collective experiences, keeping only the parts we love the most, the parts that made us enjoy working in this industry. With that in mind, we created this restaurant.

这是一家有五十年历史的烘焙坊，我们的餐饮服务仅每周开放四晚，每次仅接待12位客人。这让我们有底气在打造餐饮体验时坚守本心、绝不妥协。我们都在世界各地的高端餐厅深耕成长，比如都曾在纽约工作过。我在纽约积累了经验，我们的经历各有不同：他曾与丹尼·梅耶、丹尼·布鲁等业界大咖共事，也任职于多家知名餐厅，而我则在麦迪逊公园11号这类名店打磨过技艺。我们汇聚所有的集体经验，只保留其中最热爱、最能让我们享受工作的部分，并以此为核心打造了这家餐厅。

Sameer Seth：To give you some context, this is what it’s like: it’s a 12-seat chef’s counter, an intimate space with just one chef leading the experience.

给大家看一下，我们的餐厅是这样的：一个仅设12个座位的主厨吧台，一方私密空间，由一位主厨全程主导用餐体验。

Hussain Shahzad：We take those cherished elements of our past experiences and curate a dining experience for our guests that evolves daily. We study our guests, understand their needs and desires, and tailor the entire experience around them.

我们萃取过往经历中那些珍贵的精髓，为客人打造每日焕新的定制化用餐体验。我们了解每位客人的情况，读懂他们的需求与期许，再以此为核心量身打造全程体验。

Q：You mentioned staying true to your core while letting go of what you don’t like.So what parts of your life and what kind of dining experience are we talking about?

你刚才提到，要坚守本心，舍弃自己不认同的东西。具体来说，是舍弃了生活里的哪些部分，又想要打造怎样的用餐体验呢？

Hussain Shahzad：The parts I never liked about fine dining, especially after a certain point, were that it was becoming too stiff and solemn. We knew we didn’t want to keep those aspects. Going out to eat should be fun, a little adventurous, and entertaining at the same time—those are the parts we’ve kept, and the rest, we’ve let go of. If I had to define Papa's, it’s about fun and being unpretentious. We don’t follow any of the rules of a traditional fine dining restaurant. There are no white tablecloths, no stiffness, no rigid etiquette about how you have to eat. Every part of the experience is fun, unpretentious through and through.

我一直不喜欢高端餐饮的一点是，尤其在某个阶段后，它变得越来越刻板、沉闷。这些特质我们坚决摒弃。外出用餐本就该充满乐趣，带点冒险感，同时兼具体验感——这些才是我们保留的核心，其余的便都舍弃了。如果要用关键词定义Papa's，那就是有趣、真诚。我们不遵循传统高端餐厅的任何条条框框，没有洁白的桌布，没有刻板的氛围，也没有严苛的用餐礼仪。这场体验的每一个环节，都充满乐趣，始终保持纯粹的真诚。

Aksha Nair：It’s fine without the fuss.

这是褪去繁文缛节的高端餐饮。

Q：What are the few words would you use to describe Papa's style when crafting this dining experience, this creative addition?

那在打造这场用餐体验、这份创意之作时，你会用哪些词形容Papa's的风格？

Hussain Shahzad：The few words I’d use to frame it—first and foremost, there are no rules. And it’s unpretentious, not gimmicky at all.

我想用这几个词来诠释这份体验，首先最核心的，就是打破常规。其次是真诚，毫无刻意的噱头。

Sameer Seth：I like the word context. Because what always matters is understanding the current landscape: food has always existed, Indian cuisine has always existed, fine dining has always existed. What do today’s diners and guests want? What are they truly interested in? That’s what drives us and keeps us excited. For example, when we were opening the restaurant, we talked about this—all of us here at this table have been fortunate enough to travel the world and eat at the best restaurants. But a formula has emerged: you have to sit for three or four hours, eat 20 courses, and so on.

我喜欢用一个词：贴合当下。因为真正重要的，是读懂当下的餐饮格局：美食由来已久，印度料理由来已久，高端餐饮也由来已久。如今的食客们想要什么？他们真正感兴趣的是什么？这才是驱动我们、让我们满怀热忱的根源。比如我们筹备这家餐厅时，大家就聊到过这件事——在座的我们都有幸走遍世界，品尝过各地顶级餐厅的美味。但如今高端餐饮却形成了固定模式：食客必须坐上三四小时，吃完二十道菜品，诸如此类。

So we asked ourselves, how can we make this more interesting?Akshaand her team do an incredible job of entertaining guests throughout the meal, and there are small, hidden touches woven into the experience as it unfolds. I don’t want to give everything away—I’d rather you come in and experience it for yourselves. But context is so important, and we also tailor the experience for specific diners every single day.

于是我们不禁自问，该如何让这份体验变得更有趣？Aksha和她的团队在用餐全程为客人带来了妙趣横生的体验，用餐的过程中，还藏着许多不期而遇的小惊喜。我不想把所有美好都剧透，更希望大家亲自前来感受。但贴合当下的核心始终至关重要，我们也会为每位客人量身打造专属的每日体验。

Aksha Nair： If I could add one more word to Papa's, it would be intention—the intention with which we work, the intention with which we connect with our diners. This is especially true for us when it comes to personalized experiences, which we do a lot of. It’s not about being fancy; we simply have the freedom to get to know the guests who are coming in. We don’t spend a lot of money on these touches, just small things: writing a handwritten note and tucking it under a napkin, celebrating their small wins, little gestures of that sort.It’s all about making them feel like we see, and we stay with you.

如果还要为Papa's添一个关键词，那便是用心——做事的用心，与食客联结的用心。在打造个性化体验这一点上，我们更是将这份用心做到了极致。这无关花哨的形式，只是我们有幸能去了解每一位前来的客人。我们不会为这些心意花费重金，只是一些小事：手写一张便签悄悄压在餐巾下，为客人的点滴成就送上祝福，诸如此类的暖心小举动。这一切都是让客人感受到被重视被看见，让他们觉得用餐的全程，我们都始终相伴左右。

Sameer Seth：One of my favorite examples of this was a guest who was an artist, someone we knew was coming in. The restaurant has small frames on the walls, so we replaced the artwork in those frames with his pieces. He noticed it mid-meal, suddenly seeing his own art on our walls, and he was obviously so surprised. We’d intentionally planned to surprise him that day. It’s these small things that make the experience so much more memorable and unique. The food is delicious, the drinks are great, the service is amazing—but it’s those little extra touches that make it truly unforgettable.

我印象最深的一件事，是接待一位早已知晓身份的艺术家客人。餐厅的墙上挂着一些小相框，我们便把框里的作品换成了他的画作。用餐中途，他突然发现墙上挂着自己的作品，那份惊喜溢于言表。这是我们当天特意为他准备的惊喜。正是这些小事，让用餐体验变得格外难忘、独一无二。菜品美味、饮品佳酿、服务周到，而这些暖心的小细节，才让这份体验变得真正刻骨铭心。

Q：Let’s bring back to today’s topic: time is the craft. Do you agree with that? Because all this design and all these details—you can only deliver this level of experience if you invest more time in each group, each guest, compared to other fine dining restaurants. Do you think you put in more time than others?

我们回到今天的主题：时间的技艺。你是否认同这个观点？因为这般设计、这些细节，相比其他高端餐厅，你必须为每一桌、每一位客人投入更多时间，才能打造出这样的体验。你认为自己是否比同行投入了更多的时间？

Sameer Seth：I think we do invest a lot of time to be able to do that. We opened two years ago, and Aksha has been here since day one. We only serve 12 guests at a time, so it’s almost like what we were talking about last night—like theater.

我认为我们确实为这份体验投入了大量时间。我们开业两年了，Aksha从筹备之初便一直坚守在这里。我们每次仅接待12位客人，这份体验就像我们昨晚聊到的，宛如一场专属的舞台戏剧。

Aksha Nair：I don’t think people go out to eat just to eat anymore; they want to have an experience. We’re extremely fortunate to be able to create that for them, and the restaurant is only open four nights a week, too. I use my three non-operational days wisely: one day is for wrapping up post-service work, and the other two are for learning more about our upcoming guests—what they do, sometimes even looking them up online, just to find out their likes and dislikes. This helps us so much in crafting their experience, and we do invest that time. But trust me, it’s all worth it when we see their reactions—the smiles, the surprise, that’s all we want.

如今的人们外出用餐，早已不只是为了果腹，而是为了拥有一场独特的体验。我们无比幸运，能为客人打造这样的体验，而我们的餐厅也仅每周开放四晚。我会好好利用每周三天的休业时间：一天处理餐后的收尾工作，另外两天则用来了解即将到店的客人——了解他们的职业，有时也会在网上看看相关信息，只为摸清他们的喜好与偏爱。这些信息对我们打造专属体验帮助极大，我们也愿意为这份用心投入时间。但相信我，当看到客人的反应，看到他们的笑容与惊喜，所有的付出都值得，这就是我们想要的一切。

So our investment of time also enriches the time our guests spend here. The time diners spend in our restaurant feels different from their perspective—it probably feels like a longer, happier stretch of time. Because when you’re in a happy situation, you can go faster or shorter. It's not linear.

我们投入的这些时间，也让客人的用餐时光变得更有意义。我想在食客眼中，在我们餐厅的时光一定格外特别，或许会是一段更悠长、更愉悦的时光。因为身处美好的情景之中，时间便不再是线性流淌，它会忽而飞逝，忽而缓慢。

Hussain Shahzad：When guests come to Papa’s and spend about three hours with us, that’s a huge responsibility for us—to keep them engaged and delighted for that entire time. And those three hours of their time represent about 30 or 40 hours of our work behind the scenes, because it’s like theater. In theater, you have to practice, do dry runs, make sure everyone knows their role. You’ve seen the space—it’s a really small, tight space. So every detail is measured: the distance between us and the guests, every action we take, every word we say. As I said, everything is done with immense intention and thought. It’s a beautiful performance that you get to be a part of, paired with great drinks and incredible food—simple as that.

当客人来到Papa's餐厅，与我们共度约三小时的时光，这对我们而言是一份沉甸甸的责任，我们要让客人在这全程都保持愉悦，沉浸在体验之中。而客人这三小时的体验，背后是我们三四十小时的幕后付出，因为这份体验就像一场戏剧。戏剧需要反复排练、彩排，确保每位演员都各司其职。你也见过我们的空间，小巧而紧凑。所以这里的每一个细节都经过精准考量：我们与客人之间的距离，每一个动作，每一句话。正如我所说，一切都饱含用心与思考。这场体验，就是一场美妙的演出，你是其中的观众，伴之而来的还有醇美的饮品与极致的美味，仅此而已。

Q：Just as you mentioned that you strip things down, you don’t follow the so-called fine dining format. From your perspective, how do you build your unique dining experience? Nowadays, Indian chefs are trying to minimize Western influences and maximize Indian influences—including cooking techniques. For example, there’s an Indian restaurant in Bangkok that minimizes Western cooking techniques and uses a lot of Indian techniques to create their modern cuisine.So what about yours? Also, your restaurant is only open four nights a week for 12 guests at a time—how do you keep the business sustainable and busy?

你提到会褪去繁冗，不遵循所谓的高端餐饮固定模式。在你看来，该如何打造独属于自己的用餐体验？如今印度主厨们都在尝试弱化西方饮食的影响，强化印度本土的饮食特色，这其中也包括烹饪技法。比如曼谷有一家印度餐厅，就弱化了西方烹饪技法的使用，大量运用印度本土技法，打造属于自己的现代印度料理。那你的理念是怎样的？另外，你的餐厅每周仅开放四晚，每次仅接待12位客人，该如何让生意保持稳定经营、实现可持续发展？

Sameer Seth：I can answer that quickly. First, this is actually an 80-year-old bakery. On the ground floor, we run a sandwich shop called Veronicas. It has 28 seats and serves 3,000 to 4,000 people a day. That’s what keeps the business going—it covers the rent and makes the entire operation very sustainable. And Papa’s is hidden inside Veronicas, which allows us to operate it only four nights a week, serving just our intimate group of guests.

我可以简单回答这两个问题。首先，这里其实是一家有八十年历史的烘焙坊，我们在一楼经营着一家名为维罗妮卡的三明治小店，有28个座位，每日接待三千至四千位客人。正是这家小店支撑着整体的运营，支付租金，让整个品牌实现了可持续发展。而Papa's就藏在这家三明治店里，这也让我们能做到每周仅开放四晚，只为小范围的客人打造专属体验。

Hussain Shahzad：That’s how we achieve economic sustainability. Now, to answer your question about maximizing Indian influences: earlier on, we didn’t look to the West as much for inspiration, as we were deep in exploring the essence of Indian cuisine. Sorry, that’s a great question, and I’ll elaborate. Once, we were always looking to the West for inspiration and validation, but those days are gone. Now, we’re really proud of our heritage and we want to show it off. As Indian chefs, we have so much more confidence to say, “This is our food, this is our land, this is where we come from, this is who we are.”

这就是我们实现经济可持续的方式。至于关于强化印度本土饮食特色的问题，其实早些时候，我们就不再过多向西方寻求灵感，而是潜心探索印度料理的精髓。抱歉，这是个很好的问题，我再细说一下。曾经，我们总想着向西方寻求灵感与认可，但那些日子早已过去。如今，我们为自己的本土文化遗产深感自豪，也想要将它展现给世界。作为印度主厨，我们如今拥有足够的底气说出：“这是我们的美食，这是我们的故土，这是我们的根，这就是我们的模样。”

Today, we have the strength of voice to say that, and restaurants like Papa’s give us the platform to amplify that message. Indian food is having a moment on the global stage, and I think Papa’s is a restaurant that’s pushing that forward—standing confidently for Indian food on a global scale.

如今，我们有了发出自己声音的底气，而Papa's这样的餐厅，就是我们向世界传递这份理念的平台。印度美食正站在世界的舞台上绽放光彩，而Papa's正朝着这个方向努力，让印度美食在全球舞台上拥有属于自己的底气与光芒。

Sameer Seth：I also don’t think it’s an either/or situation: it’s not about Indian influence versus Western influence. Again, it all comes down to context. For a particular dish, a particular experience, a particular drink—you use what makes sense in that moment. We all have the opportunity to work all over the world, then come back to India, a country we grew up in. Our minds are an amalgamation of all these experiences, so we use what feels right, not because we’re trying to maximize one influence and minimize another. And when what you create feels authentic to you, it feels great to the guests too. That’s what brings joy and delight to the dining experience.

我也始终认为，这并非非此即彼的选择，不是一定要在印度本土与西方的影响之间二选一。归根结底，还是要贴合当下的需求。一道菜品，一场体验，一杯饮品，选择当下最契合的方式就好。我们都曾有机会走遍世界工作，而后回到生养我们的印度，我们的思维与理念，本就是这些经历的融合。所以我们会选择内心认为最契合的方式，而非刻意去强化某一种影响、弱化另一种。当你打造的一切都忠于本心、真实纯粹时，客人也能感受到这份美好。而这，就是让用餐体验充满愉悦与惊喜的关键。

• Ray Adriansyah，Locavore NXT——乌布

Ray Adriansyah是巴厘岛乌布Locavore NXT的印度尼西亚籍厨师兼联合创始人——这是印度尼西亚最具影响力和以可持续发展为驱动力的餐饮项目之一。Ray出生于雅加达，父母是苏门答腊人，他通过母亲的厨房培养了对烹饪的早期热情，后来从商科学习转向在新西兰基督城接受烹饪培训。回到雅加达后，他遇到了荷兰厨师Eelke Plasmeijer，两人建立的伙伴关系最终重塑了巴厘岛的烹饪格局。

他们的最新项目Locavore NXT代表了一次雄心勃勃的进化——将超本地采购、零浪费系统、屋顶食物森林和创新的烹饪研究集于一体。Ray的烹饪体现了对印尼风味的深深敬意、对可持续实践的坚持，以及为美食打造一个更负责任未来的承诺。

So compared to the old one, the new restaurant is completely different. Like you were saying, we had so many limitations from the old one. When we knew we wanted to open another restaurant, we just missed what we wanted. And then we came up with everything. So in parallel, like you were saying, I guess experience is very important, your favorite lab. We have a bar, of course, a mushroom chamber where we grow our own mushrooms. There are combinations, departments, we are in details. The benefit can be R&D, and we have our own staff campaign, our own wage system, a little garden for the staff, and then the main dining source. Is it hard to book? It's off season right now. So I guess we do have guests from Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, and it's all over the world. It's popular. I hope so.

所以和老店相比，新店完全不一样。就像你说的，老店有太多局限。当我们决定再开一家餐厅时，就是想弥补之前没能实现的东西，然后把所有想法都落地。同时，正如你所说，经验非常重要，这里就像你最爱的实验场地。我们设有酒吧，还有一间菌菇培育房自己种菌菇。店内功能分区清晰、相互配合，我们非常注重细节。优势体现在研发上，我们有自己的员工激励方案、薪酬体系，还有员工小花园，以及主用餐区。位子难订吗？现在是淡季。不过我们依然有来自中国港澳台以及世界各地的客人。餐厅很受欢迎，希望一直如此。

From the old local board to the new ones, I think I like the word "responsibility" a little bit better. That means in every area in the global world, 98% of our immediate ingredients are from local. We focused in Bali, but we've been getting produce from surrounding us. Yeah, but I want to say things a bit better, I think.

从过去的本地经营模式到现在的新店，我更认可“责任”这个词。也就是说，放眼全球范围，我们98%的常用食材都产自本地。我们主打巴厘岛风格，但食材均取自本地周边。嗯，我想把这点表达得更恰当一些。

Now the waste system in our restaurant is really better than before. I hope everything is definitely better than before, anything you name it. It's more detail-focused. Now with the accommodation teams, it really helps with dealing with the waste system now more than before. So we tried to make everything significant. But no admissions, the target is to make you feel better than before.

现在餐厅的垃圾处理系统比以前好很多。我希望所有方面都比以前更好，但凡能想到的地方都是如此。我们更注重细节。如今有配套团队协助，垃圾处理比以往顺畅很多。我们力求让每一处都做得有价值。不对外售票，我们的目标是让大家的体验比以前更好。

What's the reason for starting this project? I think the first reason is we all wanted to have a dream restaurant. The old one had about 35 seats. And there's not much happening. There's so much limitation. The space was too small. The dining room was too small. And then for us, I think the sustainability side was not there. The reason is we want to tackle the challenges and the frustrations. And then we wanted to make our own dream projects.

为什么启动这个项目？首要原因是我们都想打造一家理想中的餐厅。老店只有约35个座位，能做的事情很有限，处处受限。空间太小，用餐区也太小。而且对我们来说，老店在可持续性方面是缺失的。我们想直面这些挑战与遗憾，打造属于自己的理想项目。

#50BEST TALKS 扎根亚洲

这个部分，其实是个亚洲50佳餐厅的公开演讲环节，跟圆桌会不同的是，各个嘉宾是独立输出的，会带着ppt。虽然互动的乐趣少一些，我就当课听。

Lesley Liu (Head Sommelier, Odette, Singapore)：

“Roots are not only where we come from. They are how we respond to where we stand.”

刘家旻（新加坡Odette餐厅首席侍酒师）：

“根不仅是我们的来处，更是我们如何回应立足的当下。”

Thanks for spending your beautiful afternoon with us. I’m the first presenter on stage today. My work involves visiting many restaurants in Singapore, which means my job is about drinking wine, thinking about wines, and talking about wines. But today, instead of only talking about wines, I’m here to share with you a topic: Look in Asia.

感谢大家共度这个美好的下午。我是今天的第一位演讲者。我的工作需要走访新加坡的众多餐厅，这意味着我的日常就是品鉴葡萄酒、思考葡萄酒、谈论葡萄酒。但今天，我不想只聊葡萄酒，而是想和大家分享一个主题：放眼亚洲。

Key Highlights:

•Lesley Liu’s understanding of “rooted” begins inNantou, Taiwan, where she grew up surrounded by mountains, water and mist, shaping her earliest connection to place and nature

•Over time, she realised that beyond natural environment, the most important resources arepeople, mentorship and trust, which continue to shape her journey across Taiwan, Shanghai and Singapore

•Early mentorship played a defining role in her development, teaching her that wine is not just about the bottle, but abouthow it is experienced, presented and shared

•At Odette, she was given the trust to build the wine program freely, selecting wines based onquality, origin and story, and aligning them closely with the structure of the menu

•Her approach to pairing reflects personal memory and cultural perspective, where even classical French dishes can be interpreted throughAsian flavour memories and experiences

•This led her to a central question:“What does Asia taste like in the language of wine?”— driving her exploration of wines across the region

•Highlights emerging wine regions across Asia, including Thailand, Japan, China and India, where wines are not imitations but expressions oflocal climate, culture and landscape

•Emphasises that these wines should not be compared to traditional benchmarks, but appreciated for theirown identity and sense of place

•Ultimately, she sees “rooted” as an evolving journey, where her roots begin in Nantou, grow through mentorship, and extend into her belief inAsian wines and their place in global gastronomy

•Through wine, she expresses rootedness as something to beshared, connecting place, people and personal story in every glass

核心亮点

•刘家旻对“根植本土”的理解，始于她成长的台湾南投——山水氤氲的环境，构筑了她与土地、自然最初的联结。

•久而久之她意识到，除自然环境外，人、导师的指引与彼此的信任才是最重要的财富，这些始终塑造着她在台湾、上海、新加坡的职业旅程。

•早期的导师指导对她的成长至关重要，让她明白葡萄酒不仅是一瓶饮品，更关乎品鉴体验、呈现方式与分享的过程。

•在Odette餐厅，她获得充分信任，可自主打造葡萄酒酒单，依据品质、产地与背后故事选酒，并与菜单结构深度契合。

•她的餐酒搭配理念融入个人记忆与文化视角，即便是经典法式菜肴，也能透过亚洲的味觉记忆与体验来诠释。

•这让她提出核心问题：“用葡萄酒的语言，该如何诠释亚洲的味道？”——这一问题推动着她探索整个亚洲地区的葡萄酒。

•她重点介绍了泰国、日本、中国、印度等亚洲新兴葡萄酒产区，这些产区的葡萄酒并非模仿之作，而是当地气候、文化与地貌的表达。

•她强调，不应将这些葡萄酒与传统标杆作比较，而应欣赏其独有的特质与地域属性。

•最终，她将“根植本土”视为一场不断演进的旅程：根源始于南投，在导师的指引下成长，并延伸为她对亚洲葡萄酒的信念，以及其在全球美食界的定位。

•她以葡萄酒为载体，诠释“根植本土”的共享性，让每一杯酒都联结起土地、人群与个人故事。

Prateek Sadhu (Founder & Head Chef, Naar, India印度Naar餐厅创始人&主厨):
“Rooted is not nostalgia. It is accountability — to land, to people, to the future.”

“扎根本土并非怀旧，而是一种责任——对土地、对人民、对未来的责任。”

Cooking at 6000ft

The Loudest sound in my kitchen is the wind......

在 6000 英尺烹饪

我厨房里最响的声音是风声......（这句话让我太感动了）

You must get this and I thought after the talk, we will have not maybe just one shot of this. All of this is liquor that I know it’s a spirit that’s 6,000 years old, made from a flower grown in Indonesian communities. It can taste of the land, or taste of the flower itself. So after that, as I said, we’ll go to the back and take a serving of this. But honestly, I was very nervous, and I’ve been studying this topic.

你们必须试试这个，而且我觉得此次分享之后，我们可能不会只喝一小杯了。这种烈酒我知道是一种有6000年历史的酒，用印尼社群中的一种花酿成。它可以是土地的滋味，也可以是花朵的滋味。所以等下，正如我说的，我们会去后面喝一小杯这个。但说实话，我非常紧张，而且我一直在研究这个主题。

It must be a part of the landscape if people are to understand them, and we often romanticize the idea of “rootedness.” But being rooted isn’t steady, it doesn’t vary structure. If snow blocks the road to our supply chains...

如果人们想要真正理解它，就必须成为这片风土的一部分，而我们也常常把“扎根”这个词浪漫化了。但扎根并非一种稳定的状态，它在结构上变化。如果大雪阻断了通往我们供应链的道路…

Key Highlights:

•Prateek Sadhu explores the theme “rooted” through the reality of building and operating Restaurant Naar at 6,000 feet in the Himalayas, where the environment directly shapes every decision

•His journey is grounded in place, surrounded by forests, farms and communities where food traditions have existed long before restaurants, and where sustainability is not a concept but a way of life

•Emphasizes that in a remote landscape, a restaurant cannot exist independently but must become part ofits ecosystem, its people and its natural rhythm

•Reframes “rooted” as something structural rather than aesthetic, where factors such as weather, supply and land conditions directly define the menu and operations
◦If roads are blocked, supply stops
◦If harvests change, the menu adapts
◦If the land suffers, the restaurant is affected

•Introduces a core mindset shift: instead of asking “what to cook,” the question becomes“what will grow here”, with remoteness acting as a filter that drives clarity and purpose

•Anchors his approach intime and place, where seasons are not flexible but directive, and ingredients are used only when they are naturally available

•Advocates for restraint as a form of alignment, choosing not to import luxury ingredients or replicate global trends, but to respect the context of the mountains

•Guided by a simple principle:“Does this make sense at 6,000 feet?”

•Sees constraints as essential to creativity, where discipline, repetition and precision lead to a deeper form of freedom in cooking

•Acknowledges the realities of remote dining, including high costs, logistical challenges and unpredictability, but emphasises that these challenges createstronger connection, clarity and relevance

•Redefines rootedness not as staying still, but as an active process ofparticipation, questioning and evolution, carrying tradition forward with intention rather than simply preserving it

核心亮点

•Prateek Sadhu以在喜马拉雅山脉6000英尺高地打造并运营Naar餐厅的实际经历，探索“根植本土”的主题，当地环境直接决定着每一个经营决策。

•他的职业之路深深扎根于这片土地，这里的森林、农场与社群，在餐厅出现前就已有悠久的饮食传统，可持续发展也并非抽象概念，而是生活方式。

•他强调，在偏远地区，餐厅无法独立存在，必须融入当地的生态系统、人群与自然节律。

•他将“根植本土”重新定义为一种结构性的存在，而非单纯的美学表达——天气、食材供应、土地状况等因素，直接决定了菜单与餐厅运营。

◦道路受阻，食材供应便中断；

◦收成变化，菜单便随之调整；

◦土地受损，餐厅也会受到影响。

•他提出核心思维转变：不再问“该做什么菜”，而是问“这里能生长什么”，偏远的地理位置如同过滤器，让经营的目标与方向愈发清晰。

•他的烹饪理念紧扣时空属性，季节并非可灵活调整的因素，而是硬性指引，食材仅在自然成熟时取用。

•他主张以克制实现与本土的契合，不进口高端食材、不照搬全球潮流，而是尊重山区的地域背景。

•他的行事遵循一个简单原则：“这在6000英尺的高地合情合理吗？”

•他认为限制是创造力的核心要素，自律、反复的打磨与精准的把控，能带来更深刻的烹饪创作自由。

•他承认偏远地区经营餐饮的现实难题：成本高昂、物流困难、存在诸多不可预测性，但强调这些挑战让餐厅与本土的联结更紧密，经营方向更清晰、更具本土价值。

•他重新定义“根植本土”：并非停滞不前，而是主动参与、不断质疑、持续演进的过程，以明确的初心传承传统，而非单纯固守。

Peggy Chan (Champions of Change Award Winner 2026, Zero Foodprint Asia, Hong Kong)：

More being rooted, in place, in soil, in responsibility.

陈碧琪（2026年“变革奖”得主，香港亚洲零碳足食执行董事）：

“更深地扎根，扎根于这片土地、这片土壤，扎根于这份责任。”

Beyond the Plate: Chefs as Architecture in a Regenerative Future

餐盘之外：在可持续发展的未来中，厨师是建筑者

I noticed something uncomfortable. Many organic-certified farms have been working hard, yet their soils are degraded, their yields are unstable, and their costs are rising. In many cases, organic farming has become a substitution model.The same pattern exists in our analysis of some instructional optimization.

我注意到了一些令人不安的现象。许多已经获得有机认证的农场一直在努力经营，但它们的土壤却在退化，产量不稳定，成本也在不断上升。在很多情况下，有机农业已经变成了一种替代模式。在我们对一些指导性优化的分析中，也存在着同样的模式。

Key Highlights:

•Peggy Chan reflects on “rooted” through a global lens. She was born in Hong Kong and shaped by experiences across Canada, Switzerland, Japan, and Hong Kong, each influencing her approach to food and hospitality

•Emphasises that being rooted in a place carriesresponsibility to people, communities, and ingredients, with Hong Kong making this connection immediate and personal

•Notes that while fine dining has driven creativity and innovation, it has also createdintensity, burnout, and extractive systems, mirrored in today’s food systems

•Calls for a shift from disruption to“care and repair”, reframing food as not just creativity, but alsopower and equity

•Challenges conventional sourcing models, observing that organic systems often leave soil“surviving, but not thriving”, leading her to focus on regeneration

•Introduces a key principle:
◦Sustaining maintains
◦Regeneration restores

•Advocates for regenerative agriculture to improvesoil health, flavour, and resilience, emphasising that better ecosystems lead to better taste

•Positions chefs as“infrastructure”within the food system, with the ability to influence how and what farmers grow

•Proposes a structural model - a1% contribution embedded into restaurant bills, to support farmer transition and system-wide change

•Highlights proven impact through theRestore Fund, supportingover 100,000 acres of farmland and 30,000 farmersin transition

•Concludes that the future of dining lies incollective responsibility, shifting from individual recognition to building systems that restore land, communities, and the food ecosystem

核心亮点

•陈碧琪以全球视角思考“根植本土”的内涵。她生于香港，在加拿大、瑞士、日本与香港的生活经历，均塑造了她对饮食与餐饮服务的理念。

•她强调，扎根一方土地，便肩负起对当地民众、社群与食材的责任，而香港让这份联结变得真切而个人。

•她指出，高端餐饮虽推动了创意与创新，却也带来了行业高压、从业者倦怠，以及资源掠夺式的运营体系，这一问题也映射在当下的整个食品体系中。

•她呼吁行业从“打破重构”转向“呵护与修复”，并重新定义饮食：它不仅是创意的表达，更关乎权力与公平。

•她对传统的食材采购模式提出质疑，发现有机种植体系往往只能让土壤“勉强存活，而非蓬勃生长”，这也让她将工作重心放在土壤再生上。

•她提出核心原则：

◦可持续发展，是维持现状；

◦再生农业，是修复重生。

•她倡导发展再生农业，以此改善土壤健康、提升食材风味、增强生态韧性，并强调更优质的生态系统，才能孕育出更鲜美的味道。

•她认为，主厨是食品体系中的“基石力量”，能够影响农民的种植方式与种植品类。

•她提出一套结构性方案：在餐厅账单中增设1%的专项费用，用于支持农民向再生农业转型，推动整个食品体系的变革。

•她着重介绍了“修复基金”的切实成效：该基金已为超10万英亩农田、3万名转型农民提供了支持。

•她总结道，餐饮行业的未来在于集体责任，行业需从追求个人荣誉，转向构建能够修复土地、滋养社群、重塑食品生态的体系。

Jason Liu (Executive Chef & Partner, Ling Long, Shanghai):

“Rooted, for me, means knowing where you come from, and that helps you know where you are going.”

刘禾森（上海凌珑餐厅行政总厨&合伙人）：

“于我而言，根植本土，意味着知晓自己的来处，而这有助于我们知道该走向何方。”

My name is Jason. I'm very happy to be with you all, and to have you here for this. I just made it through from the praise, and everything starts from Ling Long in the first place.

我叫Jason，非常高兴能和大家相聚于此，也很感谢各位能到场参与这次活动。我一路走来获得一片赞誉，而这些赞誉最初便是从Ling Long餐厅开始。

Key Highlights:

•Chef Jason Liu, chef-owner of Ling Long Shanghai, interprets “rooted” through a personal lens shaped by his upbringing in Taipei’s military dependents village, where exposure to people and cuisines from across China formed his early taste memory and inspired the creation of Ling Long.

•Describes Chinese cuisine as“uncut jade”, with roots going back thousands of years, built on accumulated recipes, techniques, and culinary wisdom.

•Sees Ling Long as his way of“carving” this jade— taking traditional Chinese cuisine and presenting it in a way that is clear, modern, and still true to its roots

•His perspective was shaped further through global exchanges, where he found many people associate Chinese cuisine mainly with“fried rice and fried noodles,”highlighting how much of its depth remains underrepresented

•This realisation drives his motivation to bring Chinese cuisine onto a bigger stage，allowing more people to experience not only the food, but also itsstories, techniques, philosophy, and cultural meaning

•At Ling Long, his approach is structured around three key elements he outlined:
◦Localisation:using ingredients from across China to reflect the diversity of its regions, including the eight main cuisines (Lu, Chuan, Yue, Su, Min, Zhe, Xiang, Hui)
◦Tradition:following a70% tradition, 30% innovationapproachstudying and respecting classic recipes while adapting them to “speak to today”
◦Xian (umami):a core concept in Chinese cuisine, understood as natural flavour found in ingredients such as mushrooms, seafood, and dried products, and further developed through techniques like house-made reductions

•Describes Ling Long as a meeting point between“the root and the world, the past and the future,”which he refers to as a“Möbius strip”

•Signature dish“Oyster and Beef”(since 2019) reflects this thinking — inspired by traditional oyster sauce beef, presented in a Western style, but rooted in Chinese marination and flavour

•Emphasises that Chinese cuisine carries a long legacy, and that today many chefs across China are contributing to its ongoing evolution

核心亮点

•上海凌珑餐厅主厨兼主理人刘禾森，以个人成长经历诠释“根植本土”：他成长于台北眷村，在这里接触到来自中国各地的人与美食，这份早期的味觉记忆，也成为创立凌珑餐厅的灵感源泉。

•他将中国烹饪比作“璞玉”，拥有数千年的深厚根基，积淀了无数经典配方、烹饪技法与饮食智慧。

•他认为，凌珑餐厅的创立，便是自己对这块“璞玉”的雕琢——萃取传统中餐的精髓，以简洁、现代的方式呈现，却始终坚守其本源。

•海外交流的经历让他的认知更为深刻：他发现许多外国人对中餐的印象，仍停留在“炒饭、炒面”，这也让他意识到，中餐深厚的底蕴仍远未被外界知晓。

•这份感悟成为他的动力，推动他将中餐带上更大的国际舞台，让更多人不仅品尝到中餐的美味，更能读懂其背后的故事、技法、饮食哲学与文化内涵。

•在凌珑餐厅的经营中，他的理念围绕三大核心展开：

◦本土化：选用中国各地的食材，展现中华大地的饮食多样性，涵盖鲁、川、粤、苏、闽、浙、湘、徽八大菜系。

◦传统与创新：遵循“七分传统，三分创新”的原则，在研习、尊重经典配方的基础上，做出适配当下的调整与创新。

◦鲜：这是中餐的核心味觉理念，指食材本身的天然鲜味，常见于菌菇、海鲜、干货等食材，餐厅也会通过自制浓缩酱汁等技法，进一步提炼鲜味。

•他将凌珑餐厅定义为“根源与世界交汇、过去与未来相融”的地方，并称其为一条“莫比乌斯环”。

•餐厅的招牌菜“蚝与牛”（自2019年推出）便是这一理念的具象表达：灵感源于传统蚝油牛肉，以西式摆盘呈现，却始终扎根于中餐的腌制手法与味觉精髓。

•他强调，中餐拥有悠久的传承，如今，中国各地的众多主厨，都在为中餐的持续发展与创新贡献着力量。

Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ & Chaisiri ‘Tam’ Tassanakajohn (Co-Owners, Executive Chef & Head Sommelier, Nusara, Bangkok):
“Being rooted is about expressing where we come from, in every detail, from the food to what we pour in the glass.”

Chef Ton & Tam（曼谷Nusara餐厅联合主理人，行政总厨&首席侍酒师）：

“根植本土，意味着在每个细节中表达我们的来处，从盘中的美食，到杯中的佳酿。”

I promise it's not gonna be long. I'm very excited. It’s the first time in almost 10 years that we’ve kept the best, and you guys asked me to do this again this year. I’m really happy to be in the Top, it’s an extra joy for me. So we’re gonna be talking about the roots. I think you can look at this in many ways, and for us, we’re like a family. I think the roots are something extremely important that you cannot leave out. Without them, a language can’t really survive, and I think it’s the same for us humans. As you might know, our restaurant is named after my grandma. That’s basically where we started.

我保证不会占用太久时间，此刻我满心激动。这是近十年来我们首次将这份美好延续，而今年，你们依旧邀请我来做这件事。能跻身前列，我由衷开心，这对我而言更是一份额外的喜悦。接下来我想和大家聊聊“根”，我想大家对此会有诸多理解，而于我们而言，我们就像一家人。在我看来，“根”是至关重要、不可或缺的存在，就像语言失去根基便无法传承，我们人类亦是如此。或许大家有所了解，我们的餐厅以我的祖母命名，这便是我们一切的起点。

Many of you may not know about our father, he passed away when we were very young. I was maybe 4 years old, and my mom was a single parent and worked very hard to raise us three boys on her own. That’s why my grandma stepped in. She was the one who really took care of us. We were very young then, and that created a very special bond between us. When I think about the roots, I think about three things. First, and most importantly, family. Second is the ocean, and third is the land. Let’s start with family. Family is the most important aspect of our humanity, and this is our family.

许多人不曾知晓我们的父亲在我们很小的时候就离世了，那时我约莫四岁，母亲成了单亲妈妈，独自辛苦打拼抚养我们兄弟三人长大。也正因如此，祖母接过了照顾我们的重担，是她一直用心照料着我们。那时的我们尚且年幼，这份经历也让我们之间结下了无比深厚的羁绊。当我思索“根”的含义，脑海中会浮现三样东西，第一也是最为重要的便是家人，第二是海洋，第三是大地。我们就从家人开始说起，家人是我们人性中最核心的部分，而此刻，在座的各位就是我的家人。

Key Highlights:

•At Nusara, “rooted” begins with a shared philosophy that extends beyond food to the entire dining experience, where food, wine, space and service are designed to speak the same language

•Chef Ton cooks from memory, while Tam builds the wine program around it, creating a connection betweenmemory and what belongs alongside it

•Their approach to wine reflects this idea of rootedness, placing emphasis onThai winealongside international selections as a natural extension of cuisine grounded in Thai soil, seasons and ingredients

•This commitment has been part of Nusara’s vision since the beginning, not as a trend, but as a way to express local identity within a global dining context

•Producers such asGranMonte in Khao Yaiexemplify this philosophy, with wines shaped by local terroir including red clay soils, limestone and a monsoon climate

•These wines are not intended to replicate Old or New World styles, but to express a character thatbelongs to Thailand, reflecting its climate and landscape

•For example, GranMonte’s Viognier shows tropical aromatics and fruit profiles that naturally align with Thai cuisine, enhancing balance and depth in pairing

•Thai wine is increasingly part of the global conversation, as part of theNew Latitude wine movement, gaining recognition for its quality and distinct identity

•At Nusara, storytelling starts withplace, connecting wine and cuisine through shared geography and seasonality

•Ultimately, Nusara expresses “rooted” through a unified experience wherememory, place and Thai identityare reflected consistently across every element on the table

核心亮点

•在Nusara餐厅，“根植本土”是贯穿始终的核心理念，且不止于美食，而是融入整个用餐体验：菜品、酒饮、空间设计、服务体系，皆秉持同一种表达逻辑。

•主厨Ton以味觉记忆为灵感进行烹饪，而Tam则围绕这份记忆打造葡萄酒酒单，让味觉记忆与杯中美酿产生深度联结。

•他们的酒单设计充分诠释了“根植本土”：在甄选国际葡萄酒的同时，将泰国本土葡萄酒作为核心，使其成为根植于泰国土地、季节与食材的餐饮体验的自然延伸。

•这份坚守从Nusara创立之初便融入品牌愿景，并非追随潮流，而是希望在全球餐饮语境中，表达属于泰国的本土身份。

•考艾山的格兰蒙酒庄便是这一理念的典范，其酿造的葡萄酒深植于当地风土——红黏土、石灰岩地貌，还有季风气候，皆塑造了酒品的独特特质。

•这些泰国葡萄酒并非刻意模仿旧世界或新世界的风格，而是凝练出独属于泰国的风味特质，映射着当地的气候与地貌。

•例如，格兰蒙酒庄的维欧尼葡萄酒，带有浓郁的热带果香与芳香，与泰国菜的味觉特质天然契合，能为餐酒搭配增添平衡感与层次感。

•作为“新纬度葡萄酒运动”的重要组成，泰国葡萄酒正逐渐走入全球视野，其品质与独特的本土标识也获得了国际认可。

•在Nusara餐厅，美食叙事始终以土地为起点，通过共同的地域属性与季节特征，让葡萄酒与菜品产生深度联结。

•最终，Nusara餐厅以一场浑然一体的用餐体验，诠释了“根植本土”的内涵：味觉记忆、土地情怀与泰国的本土身份，皆在餐桌的每一个细节中，得到一致的表达。

Rachael Hoggfrom 50 BEST

We will be exploring the profound influence of place, landscape, memories, flavors, and communities that define who we are and how we cook. Inspiration can come from the most unlikely places, but often it comes from what's right in front of you. The quiet of a mountainside finds its counterpart in the city center. The musical hues of autumn, the constant postings in an online urban streetscape. No matter where you are from, the sights and sounds you take in every day shape your perspective. I mean, they are everything to you.

我们将探索地域、风景、记忆、风味与社群的深远影响——正是这些塑造了我们的身份与烹饪方式。灵感或许源自最意想不到的地方，但它往往就藏在你眼前的日常里。山间的静谧，与都市中心的喧嚣遥相呼应；秋日的斑斓色彩，如同乐章般流转；城市街巷里的线上动态，时刻鲜活。无论你来自何方，每日映入眼帘、传入耳畔的一切，都在塑造你的视角。对我而言，这些就是生活的全部。

Today, the industry is searching for our roots, looking inward from the local flavors that have been here for nine years and more. The coastline and fields have inspired us all. So how do you think that interpretation translates into our cooking?

如今，餐饮行业正努力寻找我们的根基，从这片土地上延续了九年乃至更久的本土风味中向内探寻。海岸线与田野唤醒了所有人的灵感。那么，你认为这种对根源的诠释，最终会如何呈现在我们的料理之中？

我想，答案会在明年持续揭晓。

神婆问

你喜欢亚洲美食吗？