今年温网,谁还在看球?大坂直美穿得像婚轿出场,裙撑、巨幅蝴蝶结、堆叠褶皱长袖,第一套造型甚至先上了《Vogue》封面才下球场。而蒂亚福更猛——他竟然在现场唰地撕掉长裤,露出底下的短裤,全场炸锅。(原文:Naomi Osaka walked on to court wearing frills, a bustle, outsized bows and extended sleeves... it debuted on Vogue before it was seen near a tennis court. Frances Tiafoe who did a surprise reveal – dramatically ripping off his trousers to show the shorts underneath.)
这就是"进场战衣"的威力——只在开赛前穿几分钟,却有品牌专门为其量身定制。大坂的造型师哈珀不愿替她发言,但凭直觉判断:"我觉得它变成了铠甲,变成了力量。"新书《Ace:网球时代与风尚》作者库马尔·奈尔把话说得更生物本能:"你想想自然界,动物会膨胀身体、亮出艳丽羽毛来震慑天敌。这些造型就是人类的亮羽。"运动心理学家罗伯茨从自我效能角度给出解释:自信是达成目标的唯一最大预测因子。只要你在规则允许范围内,用任何方式给自己加满自信,都算聪明之举。(原文:Marty Harper worked with Osaka... “it becomes armour, I imagine it becomes power”. Sunita Kumar Nair... “when you look to nature, animals tend to enlarge their bodies...”. Claire-Marie Roberts... “From a psychological perspective, it is the single biggest predictor of your ability to attain your goals”... “it’s pretty clever.”)
但现役球员并不都买账。高芙兜头浇了盆冷水:"比赛一开始我就只盯着球看,场上发生太多事,一件衣服真轮不到我分神很久。"这话不无道理——走进球场那一刻是铠甲,开打后该接不住的球照样接不住。然而球员们还是挤破头要在这场"入场伸展台"上亮相,因为这同时也是品牌曝光的黄金几秒。辛纳和威廉姆斯姐妹本周穿着耐克的网眼半透视夹克亮相,2023年辛纳还曾拎着古驰米色包袋踏上草地,一脚踩进温网的纯白禁忌区;高芙则在周一展示了她与New Balance及新生代最爱的Miu Miu联名款,复古少女风,直接穿上了赛场。(原文:Coco Gauff plays down any sporting impact. “Once the match starts, I’m focused on the game...”. Jannik Sinner and Serena Williams this week wore eye-catching mesh... Sinner sent shock waves through tennis in 2023 when he wore a beige Gucci bag... Gauff debuted her girly, retro collaboration with New Balance and Miu Miu...)
时尚与体育的交汇点早就不是秘密,但温网的"全白令"让这场游戏变得格外微妙:你在被规则削平一切个性的白底色上,拼的就是设计感和胆量。体育风格媒体SportsVerse撰稿人米勒把话说得很透——这就是品牌化与商业价值在走路。哪怕你最近没赢过任何巡回赛,只要入场时穿对了,照样能成为巡回赛里被谈论最多的名字之一。于是才有了那种"只穿三分钟就退役"的定制款,也才有了古驰包袋踏进温网禁区那一刻的照片传遍全网。服装是铠甲,是信号,是挑衅,也是生意。当你在温网入场时脱下长裤的瞬间,那一帧就是流媒体时代的胜利。只不过在比分板上,它永远算作零分。(原文:Daniel-Yaw Miller... “It’s all about branding and commerciality”... “Osaka has been one of the most spoken-about players on the tour in recent years, even in the absence of winning tournaments”.)
热门跟贴