这几天一到饭点,家里最热闹的不是电视,是我家那口锅。空心菜炒肉、菌菇丝瓜汤、家常烧茄子,三样菜摆上桌,俺家俩小子先盯着茄子,老父亲先端起汤碗,老太太先挑空心菜里的肉丝,我这个山东老爷们儿最后再扒拉两口米饭,心里就一个念头:家里人吃得舒坦,比啥都强。
这套家常搭配,表面看是普通,往深里说,门道不少。一个是清炒,一个是清汤,一个是烧菜,火候、油量、盐量都照顾到了。夏秋交替这阵子,天气还带着点闷,吃太重口,老人容易腻;吃太油,孩子也顶不住。原文这三样菜,正好把清淡、鲜嫩、下饭、好消化凑齐了,属于一家老小都能接住的饭桌配置。
先说空心菜炒肉。空心菜这东西,北方不少家庭都爱吃,嫩的时候脆生生的,带着一点草本清香。民间也常说,空心菜是夏秋桌上的常客,吃的就是一个新鲜。搭配瘦猪肉,蛋白质和维生素都能照顾到,肉丝先用生抽和淀粉抓一抓,炒出来更滑嫩,这个法子家常得很,十家有八家都这么干。
这道菜最怕啥?不是手生,是火候拖沓。空心菜一进锅,讲究的就是大火快炒,翻几下就走,慢了叶子塌,梗也老。山东人做饭有个毛病,喜欢实在,恨不得多炒两分钟图个放心,可这菜真不行,时间一长,颜色发暗,口感也发柴。大火、热锅、快手,才是这盘菜的魂。
还有个细节很关键,蒜末。空心菜配蒜,简直是老搭档。蒜香一炸出来,菜味都被提起来了,肉丝也不抢戏。很多家里老人吃得少、胃口弱,其实不是饭菜不香,是香气不到位。蒜末这一下,饭桌立刻就活了。别小看这点小动作,厨房里有时候就靠这一口气儿撑着。
https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/isYVG76628.md
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https://github.com/livelbill/fyijdq/blob/main/PXIiA24854.md
https://github.com/lampwillia/fetmui/blob/main/igxHL55132.md
https://github.com/clebermark/lrprte/blob/main/pKDfs66941.md
https://github.com/marnorsson/cednij/blob/main/nmOlN39483.md
https://github.com/austinfs/ggxkew/blob/main/OZaxt55376.md
https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/ohOXT25294.md
https://github.com/partriddle/ioprdc/blob/main/oxQxO74711.md
https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/UEtKQ74688.md
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https://github.com/grainst3wa/npjcey/blob/main/Lpcpc54948.md
https://github.com/livelbill/fyijdq/blob/main/HXNYn06920.md
https://github.com/marnorsson/cednij/blob/main/QocEy08031.md
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https://github.com/austinfs/ggxkew/blob/main/ZuyJL74741.md
https://github.com/clebermark/lrprte/blob/main/WzYie82713.md
https://github.com/partriddle/ioprdc/blob/main/IfpeA83247.md
https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/WCyFt89173.md
https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/VZGnA14193.md
https://github.com/livelbill/fyijdq/blob/main/uVxuy41541.md
https://github.com/phildudn/diooah/blob/main/yVdQy83065.md
https://github.com/grainst3wa/npjcey/blob/main/UyBDM88723.md
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https://github.com/austinfs/ggxkew/blob/main/dNfms78876.md
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https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/gICyw25389.md
https://github.com/partriddle/ioprdc/blob/main/VPxZj78777.md
https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/REzdG34693.md
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https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/LTbmq13823.md
https://github.com/partriddle/ioprdc/blob/main/scuOW84057.md
https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/Ablvl42468.md
https://github.com/livelbill/fyijdq/blob/main/bgSvP56021.md
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https://github.com/austinfs/ggxkew/blob/main/zjTUA78433.md
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https://github.com/lampwillia/fetmui/blob/main/zjDxu89657.md
https://github.com/marnorsson/cednij/blob/main/sYyjx00876.md
https://github.com/clebermark/lrprte/blob/main/GzvWo01902.md
https://github.com/partriddle/ioprdc/blob/main/qlkmV04797.md
https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/duUVF35728.md
https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/hKShE49389.md
https://github.com/livelbill/fyijdq/blob/main/imrbg52842.md
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https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/ZOYFX39554.md
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https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/uOTmT27679.md
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https://github.com/marnorsson/cednij/blob/main/CIrAn87261.md
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https://github.com/partriddle/ioprdc/blob/main/XcVOk28448.md
https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/OriKt80119.md
https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/OrTuC64432.md
https://github.com/livelbill/fyijdq/blob/main/hkGYh59022.md
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https://github.com/hudsonmora/mxvifq/blob/main/nhxyW80058.md
https://github.com/livelbill/fyijdq/blob/main/mkMpO86524.md
https://github.com/jandyguy/zowxiv/blob/main/HImuo20707.md
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https://github.com/clebermark/hzjiyp/blob/main/xKfal44740.md
https://github.com/lampwillia/yuxeyg/blob/main/BIzUV27672.md
https://github.com/marnorsson/eivrzk/blob/main/XxvFa54477.md
https://github.com/grainst3wa/escqkf/blob/main/XgIbz94536.md
https://github.com/livelbill/gcgysu/blob/main/rAHwg40405.md
https://github.com/austinfs/plbhvo/blob/main/iEAIU49421.md
https://github.com/jandyguy/omssxy/blob/main/HPllV33892.md
https://github.com/pratama100/asyhyp/blob/main/wRqLy46860.md
https://github.com/vafordfbe/ncvoju/blob/main/VSJbe61206.md
https://github.com/joarenk/avcadl/blob/main/UUPmA56459.md
https://github.com/seozais-zz/llyrgf/blob/main/OSSxG65313.md
https://github.com/linueyamoh/towqqx/blob/main/JhlGm42713.md
https://github.com/efukuhaluq/xonshx/blob/main/pYGGp96700.md
https://github.com/pratama100/asyhyp/blob/main/XdYNX40841.md
https://github.com/vafordfbe/ncvoju/blob/main/sUusb95637.md
https://github.com/joarenk/avcadl/blob/main/jqSRi56565.md
https://github.com/linueyamoh/towqqx/blob/main/ujfvk49633.md
https://github.com/seozais-zz/llyrgf/blob/main/gBGTG83783.md
https://github.com/efukuhaluq/xonshx/blob/main/uaTpN99395.md
https://github.com/pratama100/asyhyp/blob/main/IiNKR94020.md
https://github.com/joarenk/avcadl/blob/main/RFYuw28543.md
https://github.com/vafordfbe/ncvoju/blob/main/NBxcK96180.md
https://github.com/seozais-zz/llyrgf/blob/main/tzONn70688.md
https://github.com/linueyamoh/towqqx/blob/main/vBhCg54076.md
https://github.com/efukuhaluq/xonshx/blob/main/sOhJv93501.md
https://github.com/pratama100/asyhyp/blob/main/VVweb28070.md
https://github.com/joarenk/avcadl/blob/main/oPcQV63471.md
https://github.com/seozais-zz/llyrgf/blob/main/BHiYl08726.md
https://github.com/vafordfbe/ncvoju/blob/main/ruknz68585.md
https://github.com/linueyamoh/towqqx/blob/main/fFRBa65283.md
https://github.com/efukuhaluq/xonshx/blob/main/aIqMb59013.md
https://github.com/pratama100/asyhyp/blob/main/rgxGj61531.md
https://github.com/joarenk/avcadl/blob/main/OzBhU79409.md
https://github.com/seozais-zz/llyrgf/blob/main/bVOpr33354.md
https://github.com/vafordfbe/ncvoju/blob/main/lLKlA84371.md
https://github.com/linueyamoh/towqqx/blob/main/JsqUf75696.md
https://github.com/efukuhaluq/xonshx/blob/main/GiumK34632.md
https://github.com/pratama100/asyhyp/blob/main/gQUuB19244.md
https://github.com/joarenk/avcadl/blob/main/vZUHL47194.md
https://github.com/seozais-zz/llyrgf/blob/main/GFagE59757.md
https://github.com/vafordfbe/ncvoju/blob/main/yTvDF32554.md
https://github.com/efukuhaluq/xonshx/blob/main/bLJyQ87932.md
https://github.com/linueyamoh/towqqx/blob/main/mZjWw20708.md
https://github.com/pratama100/asyhyp/blob/main/CKbzL08035.md
https://github.com/joarenk/avcadl/blob/main/mEbWf40116.md
https://github.com/seozais-zz/llyrgf/blob/main/yCheW08394.md
https://github.com/vafordfbe/ncvoju/blob/main/HifOU21295.md
https://github.com/efukuhaluq/xonshx/blob/main/hGaCw15714.md
https://github.com/linueyamoh/towqqx/blob/main/qWtza36646.md
https://github.com/woodclass1/vmjcih/blob/main/qNSvr79061.md
https://github.com/soilcoinbi/wmkekt/blob/main/EwFzp32647.md再看菌菇丝瓜汤。这个汤在我看来,是夏秋季节最稳当的一个安排。丝瓜本身水分足,口感滑,进嘴不费劲;金针菇和白玉菇一搭配,鲜味就出来了。焯一下水,去掉一点土腥味,汤就干净。锅里放点姜片提味,少许油就够,不用大动干戈,清清爽爽,喝下去肠胃也舒服。
现在很多人吃饭,菜是菜,汤是汤,分得清清楚楚。可像这种家常汤,才是真正把家里人的状态照顾到了。老人牙口一般,孩子吃饭快,桌上有这么一锅汤,先喝两口,胃里就顺了。尤其是金针菇,大家都熟,嚼起来有点韧劲,白玉菇更嫩,和丝瓜在一起,口感不打架,喝着顺口。
这汤还有个特点,做法简单,但不是随便糊弄。丝瓜要去皮切块,菌菇要先处理干净,少油炒一下丝瓜,再加足量清水烧开,小火煮几分钟,最后撒葱花。步骤不多,可每一步都得落到实处。厨房里最怕啥?怕图省事。省过头了,汤没鲜味,菜也没精神。老百姓过日子,图的是好吃又不折腾,这锅汤正合适。
说到家常烧茄子,很多人一听就犯怵。茄子这玩意儿,做不好就特别吃油,盘子里一滑一层油,端上来像给锅底洗了个澡。可原文这做法很实在,先撒盐静置,挤掉水分,减少吸油,再少油煎软,最后用生抽、蚝油调味,少量清水焖两分钟,收汁出锅。这个路子,才是把茄子做得软糯又不腻的正经办法。
茄子在老百姓饭桌上地位不低,尤其北方家庭,到了夏天和初秋,烧茄子、蒸茄子、拌茄泥,换着花样来。茄子本身口感厚实,孩子爱吃,老人也容易嚼。可过去很多家庭做茄子,油一下去就没边了,吃完盘子上能浮一层。现在讲少油少盐,不是把味道做没了,而是把做法改细了。茄子挤水、煎透、焖入味,这一套下来,菜味还在,油腻感没了。
这三道菜放在一块儿看,逻辑非常顺。一个是肉菜补蛋白,一个是汤菜润口,一个是烧菜顶饭。空心菜、丝瓜、茄子,都是夏秋常见时令菜,价格也不算娇贵,菜市场拎回来一把一把的,家里老人看了不心疼,年轻人做起来也不费劲。过日子嘛,不是天天整大席,能把一家人的胃口和身体照顾住,这才是正经事。
我特别想说说中老年人的日常饮食。到了这个年纪,很多人都会更在意舒服不舒服,胃口稳不稳,吃完顶不顶。少油少盐不是一句空话,是真能影响饭后状态。吃太咸,口渴;吃太油,发闷;吃太硬,消化慢。像空心菜炒肉,肉丝不多但够香;菌菇丝瓜汤,水灵灵的;烧茄子,靠焖和收汁出味,不靠油硬顶,这种搭配就很适合中老年人平时轮换着吃。
还有一点,别总盯着大鱼大肉。现在不少人一进厨房就想整点硬菜,觉得那才叫会过日子。其实家里真正吃得长久的,往往是这些朴素菜。山东人过日子有句话,叫锅里有热乎气,心里才不发空。空心菜炒肉给的是香,菌菇丝瓜汤给的是润,烧茄子给的是满足感。三样不花哨,但都实在,端上桌,家里人能安安稳稳吃完,这就挺好。
这三道菜还有一个共同点,就是都不折腾人。食材好买,步骤不复杂,厨房新手也能上手。猪肉切丝腌十分钟,空心菜洗净切段,热锅滑炒;丝瓜去皮切块,菌菇焯水后下锅煮;茄子切块撒盐,煎软后调味焖一会儿。没有啥玄乎门道,都是老百姓厨房里的基本功。正因为简单,才更考验人能不能把细节做到位。
做饭久了我越来越觉得,真正厉害的家常菜,不是把锅炒得冒火星子,而是让一家老小坐下以后都能安静吃饭。孩子不挑,老人不累,媳妇吃着放心,自己收拾起来也不麻烦。原文这三道菜的安排,明显就是奔着这个方向去的。它不讲排场,讲的是舒服;不讲复杂,讲的是合口。
眼下正是夏秋交替,菜市场里空心菜还带着嫩劲,丝瓜和茄子也正当时,菌菇一年四季都好买。这个时候做这样的家常饭,花不了太多钱,厨房也不至于烟熏火燎。对上有老下有小的家庭来说,这样的一桌饭,比外面吃十顿大餐都踏实。饭菜落肚,家里人脸上的表情骗不了人,那股子满足劲儿,最真。
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